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Post by popeye on Dec 23, 2018 20:07:20 GMT -5
Made some progress today. I mounted up my backer-board with the fuel filters, fuel flow sensors, my battery switches and fuse block. I mounted the board to the transom using hangar bolts so it's easy on easy off. The Batteries for the engines are now both on the port side and the 3 position switch gives me off, on, and parallel. I cut back close to 6' of battery cable on the motors and cleaned up the routing. Much cleaner than it was. I wanted to mount the board much higher to gain better access to the bilge area, but the panel just wasn't serviceable. I still want to be able to work the switches, change fuses, and change filters without removing it. I got the engines and batteries hooked up, but I'm stuck with a peculiar problem.... The port tach gauge is not lighting up, but I get an engine buzzer and the start will try to turn if I bump it. On the starboard side, the gauge works fine, but I don't get a buzzer and no bump start. I ran out of time for the day and I was pretty tired, so it's something I'll have to investigate next time. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedI took Mikey's idea of cutting out the back of the console to gain better access and I'm glad I did. It took me the better of 2 hours to lay out the cut and hack it out. I had to remove a bunch of gear and electronics as well as be careful not to cut through any of wires or cables on the other side. I cleaned up all the dust, but it needs a good wipe down. I haven't decided if I want to use the free piece as a panel to close the gap, or cut it up and use it as backing board and lay out my buss bars etc. I also got my wire order today from Genuine Dealz. I'm going to run 4AWG from the house switch to the console and only run switched primaries to the rear. I'll have to sort out that gauge problem on my next trip, but I hope to get started on running the house wiring.
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Post by outtadblue on Dec 24, 2018 8:14:14 GMT -5
Looking good. I hope you can figure out your motor problem without having much trouble.
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Post by mikey111k on Dec 28, 2018 11:10:14 GMT -5
looking good. You wont regret opening up the console for access. That mess of wires in the console brings back memories. Genuine dealz have great prices. Every time i would place an order i would think it would be my last one, then a week later i would be ordering again.
That is an odd issue with the motors/gauges. I'm not really sure where to start with that but i do know a bad ground can cause all sorts of weird issues. I would start with verifying that all the grounds are good. I have had issues that i could not trouble shoot because it didn't make any sense and it ended up being a bad/loose ground.
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Post by ragtop409 on Dec 28, 2018 20:30:25 GMT -5
Ditto ground some place would be my guess. Boats and Vettes can be a real pain in the ass. Rag’s
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Post by popeye on Jan 7, 2019 9:59:09 GMT -5
It's been a while, and I don't have any new photos to show, but I have made some significant progress over the holidays. I have the transom area just about buttoned up. All I have left is new bilge float switches and the plumbing for the pumps. I'm thinking of going with the Ultra Safety Switch Jr., but it's a $300 bill... Cry once I guess....
It took some significant time to custom cut and re-terminate all the battery wires and run the wires from the motor isolators. As well as waiting on several orders from Amazon and Genuine Dealz. All the internet indications stated those isolator motors are 10AWG, when in fact they are 8AWG. I ran 4AWG wires up to the console from the house battery as mains to feed the rest of the systems. All the power will be served from the center console with the exception of the radio box. I will run a 10 or 8 AWG pair up to the radio box and a smaller fuse panel in there. The overall goal with the project is to minimize wire runs.
I made a backing board out of HPDE with a hinge on one side. I plan to mount it inside the CC behind the cutout. The plan is to be able to access BOTH sides of the panel a double my square footage. I'm planning on mounting the bus bars and terminal blocks on the back-side of the panel. With any luck at all, I will have to access it very little. I will mount some of my electronics on the front side (SonicHub, Sounder Hub, Ap computer, etc). With any luck, I will have to totally clean console with all the electronics tucked away and more room for mounting safety items gear that I need to access frequently.
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Post by mikey111k on Jan 7, 2019 10:15:27 GMT -5
After replacing multiple float switches i finally went with the ultra switch a little over a year ago. I would highly recommend making the change. Ever since the old Rule style switches went mercury free they just dont last.
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Post by popeye on Jan 18, 2019 10:29:20 GMT -5
I made some more progress yesterday. I had a challenging few days at work and needed a few hours in the shop to get my mind off it and reflect. I started locking down the main runs in the console and landed on an idea for a backing board with a hinge. I can tilt the bord up and out of he way and utilize both sides for mounting electronics etc. I plan to use the front side to mount my sonic hub, AP, and sonar hub. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedThe panel tilts forward allowing me me access to the backside where the bus bar and terminal block will be located. This is is the bus bar with the positive and negative mains from the house battery. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment DeletedI stumbled accross yet another great product by Blue Seas. This is a breaker panel that accepts the standard push-button breakers. I really liked this idea because I didn't have to daisy chain wires together and these are plug-and-play should one of them fail. It also allowed me to reloacate the breakers into the console and out of the way of the elements. My original breakers were all green and corroded which is why the previous owner bypassed several of them (yes, he had things running with no circuit protection.). Plus, when I cut out that opening in the console, I can see how the water was intruding through the original breaker panel. I struggled with mounting this on my backing board, so I settled on having it ready accessible in the console should I need to access it in hurry. In the last photo, you can see I have it wired other buss bar. I'm waiting for my Ultra Safety bilge switch to come in so I can wrap up the wiring in the transom. I still have plumbing to do for the pumps, but I think I will reserve that until I'm done with the wiring. I think I want to replace the sea cock and all the plumbing going to the wash down.... so may as well do it all together along with some new batteries since I will need to pull them out as well. I also researched and solved my gauge and starter problem.... there are some in line fuses leading the the ignition panel. I pulled one of them apart to inspect and the fuse just crumbled to pieces. I replaced all of them and and we are back in business. The rest of the stray wires you see in the console are from the electronics.... I'll tidy them up later, I'm also planning an electronic refresh so I'm not going to spend too much energy on it at this time. Attachments:
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Post by outtadblue on Jan 18, 2019 10:47:36 GMT -5
Very nice. I like the idea of the hinged panel. Keep up the good work.
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Post by mikey111k on Jan 18, 2019 14:32:48 GMT -5
Looking good. That is a nice piece from blue seas. I like the idea of having the breakers mounted at the distribution bar. What are you going to do about the hole where the breaker panel was before?
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Post by popeye on Jan 18, 2019 16:02:24 GMT -5
What are you going to do about the hole where the breaker panel was before? Still up for debate. I left it untouched and right now I'm thinking of just riveting a 2" frame around it and mounting it right back where it was. Maybe add some latches or just lock it down with screws. There are some holes in it from the previous electronics, so if that doesn't work out, I might go with a piece of 1/2 starboard. The organization of the console is something I want to tackle in the near future. My wife would appreciate actually being able to use the head.... She's still spoiled from that 36' Sporty with the full head and AC.
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Post by popeye on Jan 21, 2019 21:48:50 GMT -5
Another productive day today. I think I'm starting to turn the corner on the project as all of the demolition is done and most of the prep work is done. I finally found the nav light wire run. I found it deep inside the deck plate that's near the gas fill. I tested it for continuity and it was a no go... So a new run was necessary. I reclaimed some of the 14GA duplex that I pulled out and ran it down. I tried using the origional wire run as a pull wire, but it broke mid-way... So out came the fish tape and pull string. Then I installed my new nav light. I got it from Overton's during one of the holiday sales + a coupon that I had from a previous sale. I think Atwood makes it. It's a perfect fit and the lights are sealed LED unit's that are supposedly good for 50,000 hours. My only complaint is that wires are a little thin... I think they are 18 or 20 AWG. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment DeletedI also ran duplex for the spreader lights and the anchor light. I'm starting to second guess that since although I like having the extra protection, the duplex is making the piping pretty dense. There is not a lot of room to make those turns and I have not even run electronics yet. I may pull it back and just run individual wiring without the duplex jacket. I also have this orphan connection... At first I thought it was something that was left behind from the previous owner, but now that I look at the wire colors, they seem to match up to the wires that run to the two fuel flow sensors. I don't recall disconnecting this, I think I just found it that way. I have not tried to turn over the motors yet (but I did bump them to see if the starters would jump). Does this connector look familiar? I can't find the other end. Attachment DeletedComing next is dressing all the wires to the terminal block and then the switch panel which will be the most expensive component by far, but probably the easiest part of the job... I'm taking a week or two off this job and had to shove all my tools and supplies into the console as my detail guy came by today and said business is slow. He offered to do a complete compound and wax for 60% of what he normally charges. Being the cheap-skate I am, I had to jump on that offer. If he does as good of a job on this one as he did on my old boat, I'll give him a nice bonus.
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Post by popeye on Jan 22, 2019 9:55:40 GMT -5
After further investigation, it looks like that connection is for the input to the Yamaha Fuel Management gauge, which I do not have. So no worries here... I'll just button it up and store it away. If I can find a nice used one at a decent price, I may add it, but I think I'll be better served with NMEA fuel flow sensors.
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Post by outtadblue on Jan 22, 2019 9:59:53 GMT -5
Looking good popeye!!! It’s nice to know where everything is and that it is hooked up correctly.
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Post by ragtop409 on Jan 22, 2019 19:55:55 GMT -5
Some real good work your doing. Rag’s
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Post by popeye on Jan 27, 2019 16:37:52 GMT -5
Not much to show for it, but another full day at the boat. I resolved my T-Top wiring density problem by buying a 100' spool of 18 AWG duplex wiring. Both of them together with the jacket are about the size of a single #10 wire. The 1 leg is still pretty full because I ran a pair of 10 AWG for the main run to the radio box, and another 10 AWG for the air horn. I forgot to run a fuel sender wire, so I did that too. I really didn't think it would take me all day, but the good news is all the pulling is done. It's nice to finally be on the home stretch now and all I have to do is the terminations on the terminal block and the end points. After that, it's the switch panel and I think I can wrap this up.
Since sending up a NMEA and Ethernet cable might be a challenge, I'm looking to see if I can fit my small chart plotter in the dash with the gauges. I might be able to make that work. I sure wish I had the 2004 console dash....
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