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Post by Maysport on Mar 29, 2020 18:43:42 GMT -5
My son took the 218CC out yesterday for his birthday and hadn't gone far when the JL Audio subwoofer quit working. Stereo speakers would still play music from the head unit on USB, radio, CD etc. He came back and I tried to troubleshoot - checked all fuses, cleaned connections, and even switched amps with an identical one I had, to no avail. The amp would not turn on at any level and was not in protection mode. I had the amp checked by a local stereo shop and they said it was good. The only thing I can think of is the circuit in the Kenwood head unit that powers the amp (blue wire) has gone bad. I even did a reset on the Kenwood and unplugged and replugged the wire harness in.
Is there anything else to check or do?
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Post by finatic on Mar 29, 2020 18:55:38 GMT -5
This would be a perfect question for Capt. Ron unfortunately he's gone missing these days.
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Post by fishnfool on Mar 29, 2020 19:06:52 GMT -5
Sounds like you've done all of the right things troubleshooting wise. Electrical gremlins can be a PIA to track down.
To be clear, the amp has NO power?
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Post by Maysport on Mar 29, 2020 20:09:34 GMT -5
Sounds like you've done all of the right things troubleshooting wise. Electrical gremlins can be a PIA to track down. To be clear, the amp has NO power? Correct. It has an LED that shows green when it is being powered, and red if in protection mode. What is always a little confusing to me is that there is that it won't be powered on unless the head unit sends a signal to it, even if you measure 12 volts at the input. This is why I had it checked out. So, I'm thinking the part of the circuit that powers the sub is blown. However, everything else seems to work on the Kenwood. The stereo shop did say sometimes if there isn't a good ground it will not allow the sub to turn on. The wires aren't perfect but I've checked all the connections I could find and they seem OK.
I can get the Kenwood checked out by the shop, or just put that money towards a better unit like a Fusion. I don't want to overlook anything simple though.
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Post by fishnfool on Mar 29, 2020 20:39:29 GMT -5
So the wire that turns on the amp coming from the head unit has a good connection?
Sounds like if you swapped amps all of these connections would now be new?
And seeing how the other amp didnt work, your assumption about the signal wire is probably right. Have you put a volt meter on the blue signal wire to confirm no signal?
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Post by Maysport on Apr 4, 2020 14:51:45 GMT -5
And seeing how the other amp didnt work, your assumption about the signal wire is probably right. Have you put a volt meter on the blue signal wire to confirm no signal? Thanks! After this bothered me a day or so, I thought about your question and realized I hadn't checked the blue signal wire. When I did, there was 12V there, indicating the head unit was OK and calling for the amp. I started checking wires again and found no power to the amp now. It was a little low before, which I had written off as the boat not being on and the battery a little drained. When I disconnected the power lead, there was no continuity from one end to the other. It looked fine but it had corroded up under the ring terminal connector. I think the previous owner had a stereo shop guy install it, not a boat guy, and the terminal was not heat shrunk or soldered. This is about the only thing I haven't had to replace on the previous install, but a new connector and cleaned terminals, and Sailfish is now rocking the water!
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Post by fishnfool on Apr 4, 2020 16:46:43 GMT -5
And seeing how the other amp didnt work, your assumption about the signal wire is probably right. Have you put a volt meter on the blue signal wire to confirm no signal? Thanks! After this bothered me a day or so, I thought about your question and realized I hadn't checked the blue signal wire. When I did, there was 12V there, indicating the head unit was OK and calling for the amp. I started checking wires again and found no power to the amp now. It was a little low before, which I had written off as the boat not being on and the battery a little drained. When I disconnected the power lead, there was no continuity from one end to the other. It looked fine but it had corroded up under the ring terminal connector. I think the previous owner had a stereo shop guy install it, not a boat guy, and the terminal was not heat shrunk or soldered. This is about the only thing I haven't had to replace on the previous install, but a new connector and cleaned terminals, and Sailfish is now rocking the water! Nice!
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Post by outtadblue on Apr 5, 2020 8:02:36 GMT -5
Good job getting her rocking again!!!
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