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Post by sfgreg on Aug 25, 2018 12:07:09 GMT -5
Happy to be here, especially after seeing the old forum wouldn't grant access to join.
I'm in hilton Head Island, SC, and new to this area, and band new to boating - sold the motorcycle in LA, and now this is my replacement.
I'm repairing a couple of motor issues with a mechanic's help - tilt trim caps/gaskets, and throttle tilt/trim switch intermittency issues.
My tsk alone, for now, is how the H to clean up the wiring. I have the rocker switches with a circuit board behind it. Corrosion city. I hope I don't have to do much other than clean it somehow, but don't even know where to start. orders replacement switches and hoping it will plug back in, good as (almost new) and then fingers crossed so I can enjoy my first bnoat ever.
Good to be here - thanks for having me.
My boat: 2002 Sailfish 198 DC, with a Yamaha 115f fourstroke.
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Post by outtadblue on Aug 25, 2018 12:36:11 GMT -5
Welcome! We have a wiring specialist on the forum, so you should be able to get help if needed.
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Post by ragtop409 on Aug 25, 2018 13:08:54 GMT -5
Welcome to our home. Rag’s
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 25, 2018 13:49:18 GMT -5
Is this mostly a cosmetic issue that you're addressing or do you have some functions that are now working?
Replacing rocker switches is usually straight forward, but as some can attest to you can get thrown a curve every now and then. The one switch to be very mindful of and would even be good to take a picture of before you replace it is the Nav/Anc switch. Most Sailfish boats will have a diode on this switch and the direction it points in the circuit is very important.
Good luck!
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Post by fishnfool on Aug 25, 2018 16:33:55 GMT -5
Nice to see you here, thanks for joining.
The first 198 DC I believe.
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Post by finatic on Aug 25, 2018 19:50:56 GMT -5
Welcome! We have a wiring specialist on the forum, so you should be able to get help if needed. Welcome aboard,,,,, O, for a moment I thought you were thinking of me.
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Post by sfgreg on Aug 26, 2018 9:26:16 GMT -5
Is this mostly a cosmetic issue that you're addressing or do you have some functions that are now working? Replacing rocker switches is usually straight forward, but as some can attest to you can get thrown a curve every now and then. The one switch to be very mindful of and would even be good to take a picture of before you replace it is the Nav/Anc switch. Most Sailfish boats will have a diode on this switch and the direction it points in the circuit is very important. Good luck! Thanks everybody, for the warm welcome. Yes, I wasn't clear, many of the switches aren't functioning, except for one of the ACCY switches (the other one is intermittent). The NAV, Bilge (which is auto anyway), baitwell, and decklights don't work. Not sure what powers the washdown pump, but it doesn't work - maybe ACCY 2? I attached pics of the switches and panel in which they are housed At any rate, I bought several replacements that will fit in the (looks like original) cut-out panel, and have taken care to match the number of poles and the on/off, or on/off/on aspects of the switch array. When they arrive (Amazon says delivery is today), I'm hoping I can mount them on the panel and slide that panel right back into the female receptors on the printed circuit board that's sitting there behind it. (attached pic) I think I'll take a toothbrush to the circuit board with 99% alcohol first to make sure all of those connections are as clean as possible (there's some heavy looking corrosion on the board. If that doesn't work, it's a deeper problem that is likely beyond me, because behind that circuit board the wiring looks like a traffic circle in Cairo. I'd love to just plug and play and worry about a more major cleanup after I get to use the boat a little bit - and as a new boater, the electronics are more of a convenience for me, although Nav/depth finder in these waters is pretty much a need. Alight would be nice, but we can carry lights with us, or not stay out at night for now - probably a good idea for me as a newbie anyway.
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Post by sfgreg on Aug 26, 2018 9:35:26 GMT -5
Nice to see you here, thanks for joining. The 198 DC I believe. Yes!! that's exactly right! Just added that to my message - 2002 Sailfish 198 DC, with a Yamaha 115f fourstroke.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 26, 2018 11:23:39 GMT -5
The printed circuit board (pcb) looks like it's in pretty rough shape. If water has penetrated any of the layers in the pcb the traces may have dissolved and there's no way to repair it. I would suggest taking a VOM and ground it to the negative buss bar behind the console and then test each of the orange wires that feeds power to the switches. From the photos it would be the orange wires on the lower side of the last picture. With the power turned on at the battery switch you should see power on all of these orange wires. If you don't the pcb will need to be replaced.
The two orange wires on what would be the top of that photo on the left and back side will not have power. These look to me like they are the nav and anchor light wires and they aren't energized until the switch is flipped in either the nav or anchor direction. The photo you posted will help you later on if you forget which wire goes where.
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Post by sfgreg on Aug 26, 2018 12:01:41 GMT -5
The printed circuit board (pcb) looks like it's in pretty rough shape. If water has penetrated any of the layers in the pcb the traces may have dissolved and there's no way to repair it. I would suggest taking a VOM and ground it to the negative buss bar behind the console and then test each of the orange wires that feeds power to the switches. From the photos it would be the orange wires on the lower side of the last picture. With the power turned on at the battery switch you should see power on all of these orange wires. If you don't the pcb will need to be replaced. The two orange wires on what would be the top of that photo on the left and back side will not have power. These look to me like they are the nav and anchor light wires and they aren't energized until the switch is flipped in either the nav or anchor direction. The photo you posted will help you later on if you forget which wire goes where. amazing help!! - thank you. I will do as you suggest. If I do indeed need to replace it, where would I find such a thing in this same configuration? Any idea?
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 26, 2018 12:17:53 GMT -5
I can't remember even on the other forum anyone ever posting a source for that pcb. Maybe someone will remember a post and post a link to a source. Sailfish maybe able to refer you to a vendor, it would make life easier. If it comes to it you can get everything you need back up and working again by making your own wire loom that would replace the pcb. If you use, DPDTyou need to go that route take a look at the breaker panel or even post a picture of it. You just want to make sure everything on the switch panel is circuit protected. The NAV/ANC switch will require a little special wiring depending on the type of switch you use, DPDT or SPDT. Fortunately for you we have a nav/anchor light wiring guru on the forum, fanatic, it's amazing what he can do with a few rocks and a little bit of mud. (The preceding is an inside forum joke not intended to be taken seriously)
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Post by outtadblue on Aug 26, 2018 12:44:00 GMT -5
I have never seen a board like that on the other forum. From my experience, the circuit boards don't hold up too well in salt water environments. I would suggest making your own wire loom as teamruby suggests. Should be pretty straight forward.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 26, 2018 13:12:08 GMT -5
Correction on my previous post, the two orange wires to one side and by themselves look like they are for the horn and not the nav/anc lights as I first thought.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 26, 2018 16:05:29 GMT -5
A couple of additional notes.
You do want to restore the bilge pump's manual switch operation. The fact that it's on Auto is not good enough. In Auto, if the float switch should ever fail and they do, you need to be able to manually override the auto function, that's why the switch has a manual position. The auto side of the bilge pump should also work even when the batteries are turned off. This is especially important if you leave the boat in the water. Test the float switch with the batteries in the off position to make sure it runs, you may have to do this once all the rewiring is completed. You don't want to leave it in the water overnight somewhere and find out the next morning that you now own a submarine.
As for the washdown pump. There was a separate switch for the washdown in the stern on older boats. The switch on my '04 was in the stern and it so vulnerable to failure that I finally pulled the wiring up to one of the open accessory rocker switches on the console. Look for a brown wire with a yellow trace in the wiring in the console and see where it leads to, possibly the accessory position you're thinking. This is the wire color code of the washdown pump. It carries the 12 volt plus side to the pump.
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Post by sfgreg on Aug 26, 2018 21:36:55 GMT -5
A couple of additional notes. You do want to restore the bilge pump's manual switch operation. The fact that it's on Auto is not good enough. In Auto, if the float switch should ever fail and they do, you need to be able to manually override the auto function, that's why the switch has a manual position. The auto side of the bilge pump should also work even when the batteries are turned off. This is especially important if you leave the boat in the water. Test the float switch with the batteries in the off position to make sure it runs, you may have to do this once all the rewiring is completed. You don't want to leave it in the water overnight somewhere and find out the next morning that you now own a submarine. As for the washdown pump. There was a separate switch for the washdown in the stern on older boats. The switch on my '04 was in the stern and it so vulnerable to failure that I finally pulled the wiring up to one of the open accessory rocker switches on the console. Look for a brown wire with a yellow trace in the wiring in the console and see where it leads to, possibly the accessory position you're thinking. This is the wire color code of the washdown pump. It carries the 12 volt plus side to the pump. Thankful for all of the comments and advice. I'll see if one of the accessory switches will operate the washdown - and maybe that pump is shot. I took some alcohol and a toothbrush to the circuit board today (front and back), cleaned it up best I could, and also switched out the old switches with new ones. I was able to get the accessory switches to work (x2), and the bilge pump switch to work. That leaves the NAV/ANC, baitwell, and deck light switches not working, and the horn button and 12v lighter style socket also don't work, for now. I then discovered the corroded circuit breakers behind and above the PCB and decided to swap those out - so an order was placed on Amazon and is now on its way. There breakers that were in there were 20A, 15A, and 5A, and all were AC250v/DC28v - but all I could find with a reasonable delivery timeframe were the sames specs, except DC32v instead of DC28v. Does that matter? Please see pics - a pic of the actual breaker i removed, and one of the new ones that's on its way (which I can always return). Is there an issue with that DC4v difference? Thanks!
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