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Post by schlnrnd on Oct 11, 2020 14:33:57 GMT -5
Attachment DeletedWet sanded the bottom strip because 3m Heavy Duty Cutting Compound couldn't get deep enough (top strip). So, I decided to wet sand a spot and it seemed to do the trick. My question is will Smoove 1000 get the same result as wet sanding? I used 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, then compounded the bottom strip. Thanks.
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Post by fishnfool on Oct 11, 2020 15:22:58 GMT -5
Wet sanding it way more aggressive than Smoove.
Smoove is designed to remove fine scratches down to 1k grit. It actually does better than that though.
Try a test area and see what you think. I suspect if the 3M compound wasnt super effective at cutting it, Smoove wont be enough either.
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Post by jski59 on Oct 11, 2020 16:24:29 GMT -5
I wet sanded and compounded my hull last winter. The port side and much of the interior was very faded and chalky as it had sit on a lift most if it's life.
Presta PMC compound was the most aggressive from my tests, including 3m and Smoove. For most of the interior and starboard side I was able to wet sand with 800 to knock off the worst of it then compound and polish with the presta. Technically the compound alone could do it but a quick sandpaper pass was faster and saved my pads.
I've waxed it three times over the summer to stay on top of it and while most of the boat still looks good (and cleans up nicely) the port side has already gotten blotchy again.
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Post by reelkul on Oct 12, 2020 12:02:06 GMT -5
I use 3M HD cutting compound and smoove 1000 on my boat a few years back. I first started out with just smoove 1000 in a few bad spots, and it did not remove the haze. I then did the 3M HD compound, and that did the job, so I did the entire boat with the 3M cutting compound. Since then, I use the 3M in any really bad areas, then I hit the entire boat with a light compound of smoove 1000. After Smoove 1000 I do the bubble gum, followed by the bubble gum and then white cloud.
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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 12, 2020 15:05:26 GMT -5
This is the thread I need. I bought mine earlier this season, knowing it had been neglected. Service manager at the dealership (they were not selling it, just brokering it, so he had no real knowledge/investment in it), said they could detail it but I know it would be $$$. So I bought a Makita Polisher and some wool pads and did the topsides to my satisfaction. I used the 3M Heavy Cut and then the Perfect-It Polish and finally Mequiars Flagship Restorer Wax. It worked very well, but in retrospect I believe I should have used just wax and not restorer/wax on the final step. Anyway, topsides are looking good as a result. The boat was handed over to me in the water without a good bottom paint and the existing oxidation... I decided to let it go for the season and address it this fall and spring. The pic gives an idea as to how bad, especially that you can read the old name easily ... again, delivered that way. I will have some work to do, but is the consensus that this level of oxidation can be resolved with the 3M, or do I need to learn how to wet sand? Thoughts and suggestions very welcome. Thanks - Attachments:
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Post by abouttime2fish on Oct 12, 2020 18:17:01 GMT -5
I’m a meguiers user. Just did the colored sides today. Boss called me away for dinner before I could do the transom so I took a good difference pic. I stay away from the flagship or any cleaner wax. They pull the oils out of the gel coat, and with mine that is what I feel the issue is. Today I used the polish then the pure wax. Have not used the one step compound and polish in a while, but like that stuff too.
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Post by schlnrnd on Oct 13, 2020 5:22:59 GMT -5
This is the thread I need. I bought mine earlier this season, knowing it had been neglected. Service manager at the dealership (they were not selling it, just brokering it, so he had no real knowledge/investment in it), said they could detail it but I know it would be $$$. So I bought a Makita Polisher and some wool pads and did the topsides to my satisfaction. I used the 3M Heavy Cut and then the Perfect-It Polish and finally Mequiars Flagship Restorer Wax. It worked very well, but in retrospect I believe I should have used just wax and not restorer/wax on the final step. Anyway, topsides are looking good as a result. The boat was handed over to me in the water without a good bottom paint and the existing oxidation... I decided to let it go for the season and address it this fall and spring. The pic gives an idea as to how bad, especially that you can read the old name easily ... again, delivered that way. I will have some work to do, but is the consensus that this level of oxidation can be resolved with the 3M, or do I need to learn how to wet sand? Thoughts and suggestions very welcome. Thanks - View Attachmentour gelcoats look to be in similar condition. I had one trusted detailer look and he quoted $2500-3000. I have another coming to quote this morning. Also recommend to me was Aqua 2000 and Aqua 1000. Another compound in place of wet sanding. The product has an aggressive grit that can be used with a rotary buffer. A fiberglass company 20 miles away sells it and invited me to the store for a tutorial. It’s available in quarts so I most likely will spend $40 to try it.
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Post by schlnrnd on Oct 13, 2020 5:24:35 GMT -5
I’m a meguiers user. Just did the colored sides today. Boss called me away for dinner before I could do the transom so I took a good difference pic. I stay away from the flagship or any cleaner wax. They pull the oils out of the gel coat, and with mine that is what I feel the issue is. Today I used the polish then the pure wax. Have not used the one step compound and polish in a while, but like that stuff too. That’s a nice color pop. I love the orange gelcoat when it shines like yours.
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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 13, 2020 6:48:51 GMT -5
The detailing tech at my local, also trusted, marina/service center (not the one that sold me the boat) also recommended the Aqua products, 2000, then 1000 when I told him how bad it was. The tutorial they give you may be well worth it. The tech who suggested it is a bit of an esoteric, part of what makes him so good, but his emphasis on meticulousness got me a little nervous, seeing as I'm a novice with these machine polishers and buffers. He mentioned the Aqua products don't leave oils, and the Aqua products if you stick with them will get better and better with each application. He also mentioned keeping a spray bottle of water on hand during application for if it gets too dry - and that's where I got spooked ("How do I know if it's too dry if I've never seen this or any compound on a wool buffing pad?") Given all that, I decided to go with the more mainstream 3M, but I also bought the Aqua 1000/2000 sample pak. Whatever brand, I definitely recommend a two-step approach - heayy cut, then finer polish, and *then* wax (ok 3 steps). The second step was the most noticeable impact. The first step took off the haze and chalkiness, but the second step started with the shine and the depth. As I write, I am regretting the restorer wax even more, but I may just do a two step polish and wax in the spring on the topsides. The 3M Heavy Cut was easy to work with, especially given the uneven surfaces and abundant corners on the topsides. I plan to start with that in late fall, and then do it again in the spring. I will do a test location with the Aqua products in the spring before I start on the whole hull again. And I'm doing all this with rotary buffer and dual action polisher to be sure (no 'wax on" with the left hand and 'wax off" with the right for me - my arms will be off in no time). And thanks for the price reference. Makes me happy I'm doing it myself. 1/5th the cost, and I'll have some new tools and a little more education - that's been my strategy since I bought my first home.... Once again I am glad for finding this forum - I will post pics when the project starts. I will appreciate any updates from you as well. Good luck to us both!
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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 13, 2020 6:59:12 GMT -5
I’m a meguiers user. Just did the colored sides today. Boss called me away for dinner before I could do the transom so I took a good difference pic. I stay away from the flagship or any cleaner wax. They pull the oils out of the gel coat, and with mine that is what I feel the issue is. Today I used the polish then the pure wax. Have not used the one step compound and polish in a while, but like that stuff too. Can't argue with results - that looks great! I'm coming 'round to your way of thinking as well with respect to the cleaner/wax, especially the liquid products. No more "combination products" for me! Despite the name, Easy Peasy isn't *always* the best way.... LOL! It's also *very* encouraging to see that unless it's heavily oxidized (as mine was on top and still is on hull), that polish alone can make such a difference. Followed by wax, of course.... Thanks!
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Post by fishnfool on Oct 13, 2020 8:14:43 GMT -5
I feel sorry for you guys with these dark gelcoated hulls.
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Post by Ol Mucky on Oct 13, 2020 11:15:36 GMT -5
I’ve tried almost all them (almost)
I’ve wet sanded, heavy compounded, polished, etc
3m has been most consistent and ideal. (I have a whole bottle of smoove left if anyone wants it. It didn’t do well....for me.)
Keys I’ve found are:
1) Start as LEAST aggressive as you can 2) it’s not a race. Take your time and work small areas 3) use clean, refreshed and manufacturer recommended pads(and rpm’s) for each specific product you’re applying. 4) take your time and work small areas. 5) Once you apply your final polish/wax, reapply within a week or two 6) I recommend a good UV cover and quarterly maintenance after 7) I have used/own higher tier, to budget machines. I’ve found little difference other than weight and heat. I’ve only burned one machine out and it was used hard for a good many years and it was $39
I’ve started using Mothers products the last two years on the auto’s....I seriously may consider looking into their marine products. I have had nothing but fine results on the vehicles.
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Post by Maysport on Oct 13, 2020 14:18:18 GMT -5
I’ve tried almost all them (almost) I’ve wet sanded, heavy compounded, polished, etc 3m has been most consistent and ideal. (I have a whole bottle of smoove left if anyone wants it. It didn’t do well....for me.) Keys I’ve found are: 1) Start as LEAST aggressive as you can 2) it’s not a race. Take your time and work small areas 3) use clean, refreshed and manufacturer recommended pads(and rpm’s) for each specific product you’re applying. 4) take your time and work small areas. 5) Once you apply your final polish/wax, reapply within a week or two 6) I recommend a good UV cover and quarterly maintenance after 7) I have used/own higher tier, to budget machines. I’ve found little difference other than weight and heat. I’ve only burned one machine out and it was used hard for a good many years and it was $39 I’ve started using Mothers products the last two years on the auto’s....I seriously may consider looking into their marine products. I have had nothing but fine results on the vehicles. Mucky, do you just use wool pads, not any foam ones? Do you have a good source for the wool ones? What is the best way to 'clean and refresh' them?
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Post by Ol Mucky on Oct 13, 2020 15:20:29 GMT -5
Wool for compounding , a spur to clean it
Foam - I would use with a finishing polish to remove any compound swirls. These can gum up if you get crazy, I keep a couple around, and rinse them regularly. Not a lot of people do this step It’s a pita imho, but damn if all the prior steps are done correctly this will make the finish A mirror ( its easier if you get most of the oxidation out too when you use those pads Otherwise it’ll just fill the foam with junk quicker). A 3m cleaner wax will take most swirls out too and be damn shiney
Every 3m product has a designated pad/model number for specific application
They have multiple systems and product line for you.
If you call them, they will walk you through product steps and such.
Btw, it’s a young mans game. Lol
A heavily oxidized outside 23’ hull can easily take 1 person 3 full days to get it right.
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Post by Maysport on Oct 13, 2020 16:59:02 GMT -5
Wool for compounding , a spur to clean it Foam - I would use with a finishing polish to remove any compound swirls. These can gum up if you get crazy, I keep a couple around, and rinse them regularly. Not a lot of people do this step It’s a pita imho, but damn if all the prior steps are done correctly this will make the finish A mirror ( its easier if you get most of the oxidation out too when you use those pads Otherwise it’ll just fill the foam with junk quicker). A 3m cleaner wax will take most swirls out too and be damn shiney Every 3m product has a designated pad/model number for specific application They have multiple systems and product line for you. If you call them, they will walk you through product steps and such. Btw, it’s a young mans game. Lol A heavily oxidized outside 23’ hull can easily take 1 person 3 full days to get it right. Agreed about the young man's game...as I'm doing PT on a sore shoulder and hoping I won't have to see a doctor on it... I also like the 3M products. However, my son and I worked and worked on the blue hull after I first bought it with cutting compound then polishing, then going back and wet sanding again and again. I was afraid of cutting into it too deep and took it to a detailer - yikes! the bill said I won't do that again. It needs some work again. I wasn't sure about cleaning the pads. Do you just use a spur between the cutting compound and the polish, or do you need to wash it?
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