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Post by popeye on Aug 28, 2018 8:14:54 GMT -5
I have across this board via a post on The Hull Truth. I'm glad it's here and hope to learn from it as well as contribute. I purchased by boat about 6 months ago and I cam still getting accustomed to it after downsizing from a 32' Sport Fisher. This is the first time I have ever owned outboards; every other boat has been inboards. I have a few projects to get through and primarily a complete and total rewire. I have some switches that don't work, some voltage drop issues, and some lights that don't work. I'm not sure if it's work tracing it all out, or just rip and start from scratch. If anyone has done a complete re-wire, I would appreciate your input.
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Post by outtadblue on Aug 28, 2018 9:41:11 GMT -5
Welcome aboard! You are in luck with your wiring troubles. We have a few guys that have rewired their sailfish boats.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 28, 2018 9:58:27 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum, it's good to see some of the new members put up a post and start participating in the Sailfish community.
I had an '04 266, mine was slightly different from yours. One of the key features I liked in your version was the in-floor fish boxes. When I ordered the boat I was disappointed that they had discontinued that feature. The other key difference was they changed the console. Electronic displays were starting to get larger and Sailfish gave us the full width of the console to install electronics, so you could mount twin 12" displays and still have some room for something else.
Are some of the switches that are giving you problems the switches that are in the back of the cockpit? Those toggle switches in my experience failed frequently. I ended up pulling those switch wires up to the console and put them on some of the open rocker switches the boat had.
I've not done a total rewire, that's a huge undertaking. I have built an all new switch panel with all new wiring starting at the positive and negative buss bars. If you go the route of 100% rewiring would you maintain ABYC color codes? This will help in identifying specific wires.
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Post by fishnfool on Aug 28, 2018 11:04:55 GMT -5
Welcome!
Love the color!
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Post by finatic on Aug 28, 2018 14:13:40 GMT -5
Welcome aboard, also my favorite color
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Post by ragtop409 on Aug 28, 2018 19:00:39 GMT -5
Great looking boat! Just what I would love to get one of these days. Looks like Florida, where do you run out of?? Rag’s
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Post by popeye on Aug 29, 2018 8:23:13 GMT -5
One of the key features I liked in your version was the in-floor fish boxes. The other key difference was they changed the console. Electronic displays were starting to get larger and Sailfish gave us the full width of the console to install electronics, so you could mount twin 12" displays and still have some room for something else. That's the one downside of the console, but I do like the floor boxes. I think they are rather small for "fish boxes" and I find it strange that they drain into the bilge. I store my boat hooks and deck brushes in there. I would like to put in 12" unit in the electronics space. Not sue what I want to do with the main dash. I was thinking of relocating the gauges and putting on in there, or mounting another unit in the radio box. Are some of the switches that are giving you problems the switches that are in the back of the cockpit? Quite honestly, they all are. The bilge switch is the only one that works. The nav light turns on the overhead white, but the front lights do not work. The only other switch that works is the one under the seat for the livewell (even though I have a livewell switch on the dash.)
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Post by popeye on Aug 29, 2018 8:24:40 GMT -5
Great looking boat! Just what I would love to get one of these days. Looks like Florida, where do you run out of?? Rag’s Thanks! I really wanted the Blue, but the green os growing on me. I run out of Freeport TX.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 29, 2018 8:53:17 GMT -5
If I can make a suggestion, keep the 12" displays at eye level. I had a Robalo that like your boat was built when electronic displays were still small. I had to mount my radar in the overhead e-box and found that in particular running in rough conditions to have to look upwards to see the display was hard on my neck, it took a fraction of a second longer to focus on the screen, and sometimes there was glare on the screen forcing me to stand up to see it. I just worked on a boat a year ago that had two Raymarine C-120's on it and one was mounted overhead. To see the screen I had to lean back to see it. It was ok when I was standing.
You have an interesting idea with regards to moving the gauges, I like to see the mfd directly in front of me too.
My Robalo had in-floor fishboxes, they were drained with a macerator pump overboard. I didn't know that the fish boxes when Sailfish had them drained directly into the bilge, that would have kept me from using them for that too.
Have you started trouble shooting the switch issues yet? Does it look like the second live well switch was a previous owner installation? I can't recall ever seeing a switch mounted on the console.
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Post by popeye on Aug 29, 2018 16:38:19 GMT -5
My Robalo had in-floor fishboxes, they were drained with a macerator pump overboard. I didn't know that the fish boxes when Sailfish had them drained directly into the bilge, that would have kept me from using them for that too. Have you started trouble shooting the switch issues yet? Does it look like the second live well switch was a previous owner installation? I can't recall ever seeing a switch mounted on the console. They both have outputs for the macerator pump (disconnected). I suppose one could go either way with it.... plug the holes to the bilge and drain it with the macerator. I've found that the forward storage also drains to the bilge. The two forward fishboxes under the seats drain to through hulls. I started another thread about the switches. There is a factory label on the console for "Baitwell" and the one under the seat is "Aux Baitwell". I saw another post about the switch panel circuit board getting replaced and solving a lot of electrical issues.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 29, 2018 17:20:48 GMT -5
It makes more sense to have fish boxes drained by a macerator pump. There is a lot of blood, guts, and stuff fish puke up that you don't want remnants of flushing through your bilge and bilge pump and just in general smelling up the bilge. I found on my Robalo that the macerator pumps never held up for very long, but I replaced them when they failed and I would not have let them drain into the bilge. I did gain a little more life out of the macerator pump by coating them with that rubber coating that you can buy to apply to tools. The macerator pumps I used looked more like they were designed for a little dryer environment than the bilge location in the Robalo.
The forward storage box on my 266 drained into the bilge too, but that was either drain water or seawater taken over the bow. Other than the occasional leaves that fell into the forward storage box the water draining into the bilge was fairly clean.
I misspoke in my last post, what I should have said is that I've not seen a bait well switch mounted on the leaning post. From what you've said it was installed by Sailfish, so you have something I've not seen before. Does the boat have two live wells or is it two pumps for one well?
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Post by popeye on Aug 29, 2018 20:27:21 GMT -5
Does the boat have two live wells or is it two pumps for one well? It has one livewell and a sink in the leaning post; and then another sink in the starboard aft. The pump configuration is the oddest thing I have ever seen.... They are both fed by the through hull on the port side near the oil tanks. They they both feed the livewell AND the washdown. However, I can only get 1 pump to work. In order to get the washdown to work, I have to close the valves on the live well. It would just seem more logical to have a separate pump for each and that is what I think I will do. Then get a third pump for the fresh water and set that up to feed both the sinks. I don't think I will use the macerator as those two fish boxes are just too small.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 29, 2018 20:55:28 GMT -5
OK, I have no doubt that someone modified the pump set up. The boat I looked at that me decide on Sailfish was a 2002 that a friend owned and his was not set up the way yours is. I would suggest installing the ShurFlo Bait Sentry. It will be installed on the through-hull fitting and then you can take the one pump that does work and make that your raw water washdown. The third pump as you are thinking of doing is the way the boat was originally set up.
I don't remember how big the fish boxes on the 2002 were, but maybe that's why Sailfish did away with them, we're offshore fisherman and not bass fisherman!
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Post by popeye on Aug 30, 2018 5:40:01 GMT -5
I just looked at the pump diagram in the resource section. How is that designed to work? Does that one pump feed BOTH the livewell and the washdown? Or is it just a pass through to feed another pump? That second pump I have in there looks awfully new and I believe it should work.... I just don't know what switch is controlling it (or should be).
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Post by outtadblue on Aug 30, 2018 6:41:18 GMT -5
Popeye, I would say that it is a pass through. My 2008 is set up that way.
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