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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 13, 2020 12:29:28 GMT -5
Is there a wiring routing diagram anywhere? My aft starboard blue cockpit light (under gunwale) is out and while it's not significant, I'd like to repair/replace it. I'm updating the fore and aft spready lights and would like to get everything fully up. The blue lighting was a very nice surprise (I did not know they were there when I bought it!).
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Post by fishnfool on Oct 13, 2020 19:33:26 GMT -5
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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 14, 2020 7:59:28 GMT -5
Good point - Seeing as they were LED (I figured they are quite reliable), and also that the PO had a leak in the bilge from the cup holder (it's pretty dirty and moldy back there), I was thinking wiring was the likely culprit. But better to check the bulb first. With the better weather, that will be done today. What color was stock? Live wells are read, gunwales are blue on mine...
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Post by fishnfool on Oct 14, 2020 8:08:57 GMT -5
Good point - Seeing as they were LED (I figured they are quite reliable), and also that the PO had a leak in the bilge from the cup holder (it's pretty dirty and moldy back there), I was thinking wiring was the likely culprit. But better to check the bulb first. With the better weather, that will be done today. What color was stock? Live wells are read, gunwales are blue on mine... Unlikely the wiring. More than likely a bad connection. Pull the light, gently pull the wire out until you pull the butt splices, cut the wire and resplice. I bet the light still works. Use heat shrink butt splices and/or heat shrink. It will help to preserve the connections. It gets very damp in there Which is hard on connections.
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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 14, 2020 8:26:21 GMT -5
Use heat shrink butt splices and/or heat shrink. It will help to preserve the connections. It gets very damp in there Which is hard on connections. Yup - all about that heat shrink. I learned that a long time ago, I've even got the ones that have a bead of solder in the center. If they've been replaced once already as you say, then yes, the prime candidate becomes a bad connection at the splice. If that proves true, then the PO will have officially attained "Hack" status (maybe he's already earned it from the condition of the gelcoat and the cupholder leak that he let trash the bilge....). Thanks - appreciate all the feedback.
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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 14, 2020 17:10:03 GMT -5
Combination of failures - the real problem was the light element failed, but in accessing it I discovered a bad butt splice. Access achieved from the mounting hole for the light and also from the speaker cutout below and slightly aft. I'll replace the light element as soon as it arrives and replace the bad splice.
Just to note, the failed splice was a heat shrink that wasn't crimped well, so it was holding up, but slipped apart when pulled (not hard). It's also a junction, meaning two hots come in one side, one out the other (up to the light) and one of the hot side wires continues on to the next light. I would think a junction bar would be better, but that's how someone before me did it, and I don't have the room/access to upgrade.
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Post by EasyPeasy on Oct 15, 2020 10:20:16 GMT -5
Just want to give a thanks for this recommendation. The part matched my boat, and I decided to order it. Now, ordering direct had some high shipping rates ($18 FedEx Gnd was the cheapest) which didn't make sense for a $13 light that "will fit in a #10 envelope". I wrote an email to them last night, and then called this morning. Got a great agent who had seen my email, and invited me to email them and request a US mail shipment, but also referred me to a wide distributor network that carries their parts and suggested it might be easier to buy from them - even told me how to search for my exact model. I decided to use my go-to vendor, Partsvu, who have a discounted price and reasonable shipping rates. As I told the agent, "Nobody's gonna retire or send their kid to college based on this purchase, but I'm just so happy to see such great, honest support as I'm getting from you" Innovative Lights and Partsvu - two merchants with whom I am very impressed, and now loyal to....
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Post by shellinout on Feb 9, 2022 22:16:20 GMT -5
I would like to see the wire routing for the deck lights on 2660. The wire has degraded to the point that I have low voltage. Too low for led s.The rear ones come through the lower conduit but the front one seem to feed in under the battery box somewhere.
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Post by fishnfool on Feb 10, 2022 9:39:22 GMT -5
I would like to see the wire routing for the deck lights on 2660. The wire has degraded to the point that I have low voltage. Too low for led s.The rear ones come through the lower conduit but the front one seem to feed in under the battery box somewhere. Have you tried cutting/stripping the wire back to fresh copper? It would be very unusual for the entire run of insulated wrapped wire to be bad. Often moisture wicks it's way back into the wire from either terminal end causing corrosion and thus low/no voltage. I've seen bad/corroded copper go back as much as 6 inches. I would try the above first. Alternatively if you insist on running new wire, you could tape the new wire off on the old and pull it through.
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Post by EasyPeasy on Feb 10, 2022 10:43:57 GMT -5
Agree that it's best to work it from the end, and if necessary, tape and pull back to a good section of wire and splice there. These are LED so there's like zero current draw... all you need is good contact. I got a little better access (if I recall correctly) by removing the speaker and reaching up to the lighting there (at least for the aft under-gunwale lamp).
Good luck!
Stu
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Post by popeye on Feb 11, 2022 6:20:08 GMT -5
I would like to see the wire routing for the deck lights on 2660. The wire has degraded to the point that I have low voltage. Too low for led s.The rear ones come through the lower conduit but the front one seem to feed in under the battery box somewhere. A lot of this kind of stuff is/was done by dealers and 3rd party uplifters. I doubt any documentation exists, and if it does, it would vary from vendor to vendor. You can attach new cable to the old and pull it through, or cut back the bad part of your existing cable and splice in fresh cable. Cable only goes bad when thereis moisture ingress at the ends.
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