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Post by popeye on Aug 29, 2018 16:17:58 GMT -5
I have several switches around the boat and I am trying to figure out what they are supposed to do. The goal here is to determine their function so I can trace down any faults.
There are two new SeaFlo pumps in the aft compartment. They are both plumed into the through hull pickup and the livewell and washdown. Why they are both plumed that was is a mystery to me. Only one of the pumps work.
Console HORN = Horn (had to rewire) NAV = Nav/Anc (Front doesn't work) BILGE= Bilge (WORKS!) BAITWELL = NOTHING DECK LIGHTS = NOTHING ACCY 1 = NOTHING (dash light turns on for a second, then turns off) ACCY 2 = NOTHING
Console Seat AUX BAITWELL = 1 of the Livewell Pumps in the aft compartment.
Aft Cockpit FRESH WATER = NOTHING (I assume it's to work the fresh water pump. no pump present) PUMP = NOTHING (I assume it's to work the macerator pump)
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Post by finatic on Aug 29, 2018 17:58:56 GMT -5
I'm sure Teamruby will be able to help you out I'm still traumatized from my wiring job 3 weeks ago
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 29, 2018 18:03:05 GMT -5
Live well and washdown pumps; my boat was a year newer than yours. My boat and for a long time afterwards Sailfish installed a ShurFlo Bait Sentry pump, which supplied sea water to the baitwell. The Bait Sentry pump had a pass-through fitting on the bottom of the pump. Another hose was connected here and it was in turn connected to the wash down pump. So in summary what Sailfish did was use one through-hull fitting to supply sea water to two different pumps that ran independently of each other. Each pump had its own switch and separate power supply. This pump is shown in the Resource section of this forum. NAV light quick check. Take a piece of wire and jump the switch by connecting one end to the center tab on the NAV/ANC light switch and take the other end and touch it to the tab directly above it, this is the NAV light side of the switch. If the bow lights do not come on the problem is confined to either the wire leading up to the bow or the light fixture itself. In my experience I would bet its the light fixture. Just a note of caution, if there are four tabs on the back of the switch do not connect the jumper to the other tab at the top of the switch that is kind of off to one side. This a ground for the indicator light inside the switch and if you accidentally connect the jumper here you're creating a direct short. For all of the switches that don't seem to work I would use either a VOM or test light and verify first that you have power at each switch by checking the center tab on the back of the switch. If you don't have power than the next thing to check would be the breaker that supplies power to that switch. If the breaker does not appear to be tripped check to make sure you have power on both side of the breaker. OK, so if you do have power to the center tab on the switch, turn the switch on and verify that you have power out. If there is power out than the problem is in the wiring from the switch to whatever device the switch controls. Sailfish uses a connector called a Deutsche connector. They are used a lot in wet areas of the boat because they are fairly waterproof, but occasionally water does creep into them and they corrode and 12 volts no longer gets to where it's intended. These connectors are either triangular or square depending on the number of wires involved. If you find a bad one you can get them on Amazon or sometimes in an auto parts store. I recommend installing a replacement when you find a bad one. It can be a lot easier than splicing replacement pumps into the wiring on the boat. Over time you could find the wires getting shorter and shorter. When I needed to replace a pump I installed the Deutsche connector on the pump for example at home and then took it to the boat and this made replacing much easier. Here's a link to show you what the connector looks like and what to look for on your boat. www.amazon.com/Deutsch-4-pin-Connector-housing-Terminals/dp/B00B4FCQCK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1535583061&sr=8-4&keywords=deutsche+connector+kitwww.amazon.com/Deutsch-3-pin-Connector-housing-Terminals/dp/B00B4FAU7S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1535583114&sr=8-7&keywords=deutsche+connector+kitwww.amazon.com/Deutsch-2-Pin-Connector-Housing-Terminals/dp/B0166WDCVO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1535583152&sr=8-6&keywords=deutsche+connector+kitThe aft cockpit, is this the small switch panel on starboard side of the cockpit on the transom. My boat had a switch panel in this location and it failed so frequently that I gave up on it pulled the wiring up to switches in the console. If any of the wires you find are Sailfish wires you can compare the color code to the Sailfish wiring diagram and that will tell you what the wire is supposed to be connected to.
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Post by popeye on Aug 29, 2018 20:36:56 GMT -5
Thanks for that explanation. I will do some more research on my next trip down in a couple of weeks. It's difficult to tell what is factory and what was rednecked engineered.
I put a meter on the front nav light and I'm not getting 12V up there. I'll have to trace it out and find that connector. I ordered a new LED version and I hope it fits.
I'll keep y'all posted on my progress.
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Post by Team Ruby on Aug 29, 2018 21:06:04 GMT -5
One thing that might help you determine alien wiring from Sailfish wiring is that Sailfish does adhere to ABYC color codes for the wiring of the factory installed wire loom, so if you spot a wire somewhere note the color like a blue wire with a white trace. If you look it up on the wiring diagram in the Resource section of the forum you'll see that it is a deck light wire. So if you see a solid colored wire and it is not the wire that came with the device, then the chances are good you found a section of "rednecked engineered".
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