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Post by hookedup on Apr 17, 2021 17:44:24 GMT -5
Okay, I admit it. I've run into a problem that probably has a simple solution, but I haven't figured it out yet. So, please help me figure out how to change batteries in a 245DC. I've obviously made it harder than in needs to be. First, after unhooking all the connections, I shifted the number 1 battery as far starboard as I could without putting it on top of the cables and engine control cables. Then, I tried to figure out how to remove the number 2 battery. I failed. I thought I had it (picture 2), but by the time I'd get the battery higher it would be wedged in tight. I can't take it port as the cables to the engine are there and fixed and so is the charger.
Anyway, I'll be happy to accept I missed the obvious, so tell me what to do.
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Post by gatorman on Apr 17, 2021 18:52:13 GMT -5
My guess would be to sit it back down twist it sideways the pull it out with the green top up.
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Post by hookedup on Apr 17, 2021 19:07:55 GMT -5
That was my original thought, but ski tow, engine cables and battery charger are right against battery 2. Battery 1 (under the blue hose bag) is against fiberglass support and battery cables. I'm thinking I need to rotate battery 1 and shift it over top of the cables, but I can't figure out how to hold the battery to do that. If I could shift it far enough I'd rotate battery 2 and pull it out.
Trying to find someone who's done it and knows where and how to place battery 1 while extracting battery 2. It is really tight. I can only move battery 2 about 1 inch side to side unless I can shift battery 1 on top of the cables and pumps over the seacock. That looks reasonable, but there is no way I can see to hold battery 1 while moving it, and it looks like moving it back would be damn near impossible.
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Post by footy3 on Apr 17, 2021 19:47:46 GMT -5
Richard - I am thinking I may replace my batteries this year, I'm still under shrink wrap, but batteries are 3 years old. When you get it figured out, take pictures and post them up please. I replaced my baitwell pump and was looking at the batteries thinking it might be a real PITA to get them out.....
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Post by hookedup on Apr 18, 2021 10:41:11 GMT -5
Time allowing, I'm going back tomorrow to find a better approach and take more picture. I'm thinking my original idea to replace one battery now and one in the fall won't work as I'd face doing this twice.
Also considering major change of moving one or both batteries to port side since the boat lists to starboard (always has). If I move one to port it would be much easier on future replacements. Have to do some measuring to see if moving both would complicate or ease future replacements. Then, order longer cables, battery tray and install.
Sure wish Sailfish had thought about putting one battery on port side. It would have cost a few dollars more to begin with, but it would have been so much easier to replace batteries and balanced the boat better.
Reminds me of my '57 T-bird and replacing spark plugs. Only easy way to get the rear plugs would be to remove the engine. Love it when engineers/designers don't think about normal maintenance items.
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Post by fishnfool on Apr 19, 2021 18:50:34 GMT -5
I hate replacing my batteries. Admittedly mine are not as crammed as yours but they are crammed in there to such extent that if I have to replace either of the outside batteries the middle battery has to come out. And wouldn't you know it, I'm due to replace both outside batteries this year. Why I didn't I just do that last fall when o replaced the middle battery.
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Post by hookedup on Apr 20, 2021 6:52:24 GMT -5
If you thought like I have done in the past, make the batteries 6 months to 1 year apart in replacement so you'd always have at least 1 fresh battery. I've done that with every multi-battery boat I've had until now.
I didn't make it out yesterday (really good downpour in the afternoon), but I'll try again this for afternoon. Only plan to see if I can figure out how to move batteries for removal, and measure for new cables and box location. My fishing buddies have volunteered to help, but there is no way for 2 people to work in the small space available. And, if all else fails I have the phone number for the local Sailfish dealer and I'll see what they'd charge to do a battery removal only. I still plan to rework how the new batteries will go in so I don't face this mess again.
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Post by fishnfool on Apr 20, 2021 8:32:39 GMT -5
Replace them with AGM like Odyssey, they are smaller than a comparable lead acid, so should make it easier to replace in the future.
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Post by hookedup on Apr 20, 2021 15:42:57 GMT -5
Talk about making a mountain out of a mole hill.....Once I determined what to do, it's easy. Changed out the battery in 1/2 hour. Steps: 1. pull the shower hose out fully (allows easier access to the starboard battery). 2. Remove and mark if needed all wires on both batteries. 3. Remove the quick release holding the batteries in place. 4. Lift, rotate and shift the starboard battery into the seacock area. It should balance on the hoses and cables. 5. Rotate the port battery, lift and remove. 6. If replacing the starboard battery, shift and remove it. 7. Place batteries back into place. 8. Reinstall battery retainer 9. Replace removed cables. 10. Put shower hose back. I was worried about damaging cables and/or hoses. As long as you lift the battery high enough to clear the cables it should go fine. Still plan to purchase new cables and a battery base and install one battery on port side to help balance the boat better. Note: Dealer had installed type 24 batteries. Replacing them with type 27. Battery holder was designed for type 27 and that is the 'right' battery for this boat IMO. First 245DC I looked at had type 27.
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Post by footy3 on Apr 21, 2021 5:45:52 GMT -5
I will be bookmarking this for future use. Interesting note about the group 24 batteries. I purchased my boat in Florida but had it shipped to NJ, first mistake... When I took delivery of it up here I had a myriad of electrical problems, the first response was, well you have 24's the boat is designed for 27's, I did not know until that moment that boats are delivered without batteries and the dealer is responsible for putting them in. Called Sailfish and they said well you have to talk to the dealer who sold you the boat. I said, ok, but he's going to tell me 24s are fine, so can you provide me with the documentation that shows the boat is designed for 27s. Their response blew me away. They said, well the battery trays are for 27's, so that's what it needs. I could not believe they had no document anywhere and simply relied on a dealer putting the biggest battery the tray would fit.
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Post by hookedup on Apr 21, 2021 6:56:38 GMT -5
I will be bookmarking this for future use. Interesting note about the group 24 batteries. I purchased my boat in Florida but had it shipped to NJ, first mistake... When I took delivery of it up here I had a myriad of electrical problems, the first response was, well you have 24's the boat is designed for 27's, I did not know until that moment that boats are delivered without batteries and the dealer is responsible for putting them in. Called Sailfish and they said well you have to talk to the dealer who sold you the boat. I said, ok, but he's going to tell me 24s are fine, so can you provide me with the documentation that shows the boat is designed for 27s. Their response blew me away. They said, well the battery trays are for 27's, so that's what it needs. I could not believe they had no document anywhere and simply relied on a dealer putting the biggest battery the tray would fit. I was going to 'like' your post, but that doesn't express my feelings. I don't like the fact that dealers can short change Sailfish customers. It's not a big deal, but it's not right.
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