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Post by trapperj on Apr 28, 2021 0:06:28 GMT -5
Hi all - new to the forum and glad to be a part of the community
I have a 2013 320 express and when coming in to dock today all power to motors was lost, almost aa though the power was cut. The power almost immediately came back on and I was able to restart the boat. This was a little unnerving so wanted to ask if anyone has heard of this and ideas on where to look.
Thanks in advance!
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Post by jski59 on Apr 28, 2021 5:23:06 GMT -5
Well, that could be a number of things but if it seemed electrical, I’d start there.
Any electrical work done lately? Battery connections secure? I had a connection work loose on the back of my engine battery switch that gave me fits.
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Post by hookedup on Apr 28, 2021 6:43:36 GMT -5
I'd loosen and tighten every battery cable, the switch connectors, buss bar cables back to the battery/switch and check for corrosion too. Probably focus on the switch as batteries get replaced, but most don't check the switch/es too often. jski59's idea about the motor cable is a good idea too.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Post by fishnfool on Apr 28, 2021 8:08:42 GMT -5
Both motors cut out??? Does it happen everytime? Does one motor cut out sometimes or is it always both? Are the motors slow to crank?
That is very strange... I'd say you can eliminate anything mechanical with the motors themselves if both are doing the same thing, if it were isolated to a partical motor then there could be a host of things to look at.
What are your RPM's at idle? It could be electrical, possibly an idle adjustment is needed.
Does the 320 have a single tank or dual tanks? If single, maybe a bad anti syphon valve at the fuel tank? Do your primer bulbs collapse when this happens?
Agree start with the connections to your starting batteries - remove, check for corrosion, clean and tighten. Check your batteries too, making sure they putting out the proper voltage at rest and under load.
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Post by trapperj on Apr 28, 2021 9:22:46 GMT -5
I will check the battery connections. She rides in salt water so staying ahead of the corrosion is a daily chore.
Where would the switch connection be located? I have owners manual so can try to trace the switch back but if anyone has any guidance that would be appreciated too.
This has only happened once. It definitely felt electrical rather than mechanical.
The volts read 14.1-13.9 most of the time and the batteries are new as of last year. I changed them early in the season but it was as simple as a battery swap and I didn't do anything else.
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Post by trapperj on Apr 28, 2021 9:25:55 GMT -5
Idle Rpm is 6 or 7.
Single tank, twin 300s but there wasn’t much warning. It was quick lights out no vibration or odd noise just cut. Turned ignition off then back on and it all came back.
I sat at dock and ran motors while cleaning and nothing abnormal
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Post by fishnfool on Apr 28, 2021 11:28:41 GMT -5
I think 600 RPM is on the low side of idle. Again if it's happening to both motors at the same time I'd rule out the idle control valve. An idle adjustment may be due.
Voltage sounds ok should be at 14 or above at rest. And likely if it was a battery problem it would be isolated to one motor as you should have 2 starting batteries. Checking connections is always a good practice anyway. There should also be a bus bar behind the helm and connections behind your switches. Check that all are tight. I had loose nuts on both that affected one of my motors being slow to start.
If it only happened once I would be less concerned. F150s have a reputation for sporadically cutting out at idle speed, mainly when shifting in and out of gear. One of my motors will randomly shut off sometimes and it always happens around the sock - GRrrrr Idle adjustments have been known to help.
Again both motors could also point to possible fuel delivery issue eg anti syphon valve that acted up. There's a way to check it I think with a volt meter, but again if it just happened once it might be some outside factor that caused an isolated event.
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Post by trapperj on Apr 30, 2021 8:52:59 GMT -5
Thanks for the responses. I’ll try bumping up idle. Had it out 10 hrs yesterday with no issues. Battery voltage 13.8 - 14.2. Typically 14.1 or so under way. Closer to 13.8/9 when idling. Seems ok to me.
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