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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 22, 2018 10:35:41 GMT -5
Wow this site has taken on a whole new thyme. lol,,,,, love it. good one Ron. I'm standing by waiting for you to open that door, the littlest screw up. lol...... Thyme? What, we have a cooking segment now with Chef Fin?
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Post by finatic on Jul 22, 2018 11:09:18 GMT -5
Wow this won't be easy.lmao
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Post by ksoles on Jul 24, 2018 7:31:46 GMT -5
I would want a bigger anchor locker and in floor fishbox's and I like the idea of coffin box. I agree Sailfish needs to spend more time on cleaning up the wiring and just some small things would put them in a higher class of boats, they make a great boat but they could do more with fit & finish.
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 24, 2018 8:59:33 GMT -5
I would want a bigger anchor locker and in floor fishbox's and I like the idea of coffin box. I agree Sailfish needs to spend more time on cleaning up the wiring and just some small things would put them in a higher class of boats, they make a great boat but they could do more with fit & finish. The early 236/238/266 CC's did have two floor fish boxes in the cockpit and stopped putting them in with the 2004 model year. I don't know what the reason was for doing away with this feature. The anchor lockers used to be much larger too in the 236/238/266 CC. When they introduced the 2360 and 2660 they made a change to get more floor space in front of the console and to do that they had to shorten the anchor locker.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2018 9:31:46 GMT -5
Team Ruby: Cannot see anything from the small hole in the pipe (hardtop support). I talked to someone who did major work on a hardtop and he suggested I use the tape pull (there is one pull in the hardtop to the console). I plan to use that for the radar, and if I were to go that route I'd have to drill another hole in the cable trough and get an antenna cable extender (plus the obvious addition of a new pull). I've run the cable forward and tomorrow I plan to drill into where the starboard forward support is attached. I think I've got the cable that far and it if it works, it is the best way to run it. Find out tomorrow. When I ordered mine I paid the $195 I think it was to have the radar wiring pre-installed. With the other options I did there is zero space to add anything else wiring wise in that small channel in the hardtop even though SF did leave a pull through but I could never find the other end!!! Like you it would have been nice to run the wires down the front supports and come out by the helm. Not sure if you have a VHF installed but I have seen some installed the lazy and personally horrible way ie. one the side of the top cap by the helm!! There is a pad for antenna mount on the hardtop and if you undo the bolts holding the top to the frame and lift up the top you will find a hole right above the rear right down tube. Run a snake and run the coax (after drilling a hole in the hard top directly above it) down the tube. From there it's easy to grab and route to the helm. Look's IMHO better and more practical there!! Attachment Deleted
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 24, 2018 11:53:53 GMT -5
I had a cc with an all together different top. Check-in with "hookedup" on the forum here. He's got a 245DC and is dealing with the same things you are.
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Post by hookedup on Jul 24, 2018 13:12:12 GMT -5
I have more horror stories about what I thought should be a simple cable run. But first, the pull coming from the console was wrapped around the cables multiple times. I found this when I pulled the speaker out on the starboard side. That pull is routed up to the cable trough in that aft center plate opening of the hardtop where the cables enter the support tube. To extend that for my radar cable pull I pulled the forward starboard hardtop light out and fished 2 pulls down to the tie on to the preinstalled pull. Cut my fingers a bit as that cable trough is anything but smooth. Anyway, now I have two pulls in the cable trough that go to the console and aren't wrapped around the cables. As for my antenna (still not completed) I put an 8 foot antenna on the starboard front of the hardtop to gain a couple of miles when offshore and ran the cable down the aft starboard support. However, I couldn't reach from the speaker opening to the cable and now plan to install a deck plate further back so I can access the cable to bring forward to the console. Due to our weather forecast, it probably will be over 10 days before I can do much. The good news is I may use that deck plate to access the hydro cables for the installation of an autopilot. I'll have to see how much slack I can get, but I'd rather cut the lines there than in the console on top of all the wiring.
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 24, 2018 17:36:17 GMT -5
The deck plate sounds like a great idea; no doubt it will come in handy in the future for other projects like the radar and the AP. Thanks for the pictures, I was curious about the access points in the hardtop that I had seen glimpses of on other 245's I had seen on the Internet. The GoPro mount came out pretty good!
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Post by unclebuck on Jul 24, 2018 19:21:53 GMT -5
I just had a really bizarre thought. I think we can all agree that the Sailfish hull performs really well. What if... and it's a major 'what if'... Sailfish developed a 3-piece boat using the same hull? 3-piece construction would gain a lot of deck space, and potentially provide much easier access to all the systems below deck. Yeah, I know it's a whole different animal. It'd be easier to just go buy a Contender or SeaVee.
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Post by fishnfool on Jul 24, 2018 20:08:52 GMT -5
I have more horror stories about what I thought should be a simple cable run. But first, the pull coming from the console was wrapped around the cables multiple times. I found this when I pulled the speaker out on the starboard side. That pull is routed up to the cable trough in that aft center plate opening of the hardtop where the cables enter the support tube. To extend that for my radar cable pull I pulled the forward starboard hardtop light out and fished 2 pulls down to the tie on to the preinstalled pull. Cut my fingers a bit as that cable trough is anything but smooth. Anyway, now I have two pulls in the cable trough that go to the console and aren't wrapped around the cables.
As for my antenna (still not completed) I put an 8 foot antenna on the starboard front of the hardtop to gain a couple of miles when offshore and ran the cable down the aft starboard support. However, I couldn't reach from the speaker opening to the cable and now plan to install a deck plate further back so I can access the cable to bring forward to the console. Due to our weather forecast, it probably will be over 10 days before I can do much. The good news is I may use that deck plate to access the hydro cables for the installation of an autopilot. I'll have to see how much slack I can get, but I'd rather cut the lines there than in the console on top of all the wiring.
I do a lot of stuff myself, but love learned some things are best left to a pro. My time is worth more and my patience is too thin.
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Post by fishnfool on Jul 24, 2018 20:11:33 GMT -5
I just had a really bizarre thought. I think we can all agree that the Sailfish hull performs really well. What if... and it's a major 'what if'... Sailfish developed a 3-piece boat using the same hull? 3-piece construction would gain a lot of deck space, and potentially provide much easier access to all the systems below deck. Yeah, I know it's a whole different animal. It'd be easier to just go buy a Contender or SeaVee. Would require an entirely new cap and liner mold, lots of $'s. I agree, would like to see a 3 piece boat like what Angler did with their 26.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2018 2:03:44 GMT -5
As for my antenna (still not completed) I put an 8 foot antenna on the starboard front of the hardtop to gain a couple of miles when offshore and ran the cable down the aft starboard support. However, I couldn't reach from the speaker opening to the cable and now plan to install a deck plate further back so I can access the cable to bring forward to the console. Due to our weather forecast, it probably will be over 10 days before I can do much. The good news is I may use that deck plate to access the hydro cables for the installation of an autopilot. I'll have to see how much slack I can get, but I'd rather cut the lines there than in the console on top of all the wiring.
Before you go cutting holes, yes the speaker access is a no go. If you, or get someone to, go inside the the helm console and look down the side of the console and hull (with a flash light) you can see where the cables come down and out of the upright. I just used my metal cable pull with a hook bent on the end and pulled the coax down the side of the boat then routed it up through the left side of the console (looking aft) and put on my coax plug. getting in and out are the hardest part (5'11" & 225lbs) but once inside there is room to work oh and a fan is a good asset too!!
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Post by unclebuck on Jul 25, 2018 6:05:03 GMT -5
FYI... I've been using one of these finger-trap style steel wire pulls for a while now to pull cables and wires through rigging tubes and t-top legs. It works great. You can really put some heat on it without worrying about electrical tape failing to hold the wire. It also reduces the amount of edges that can snag. I used the large version (1/2") to grip the plug end of a transducer cable with success. For straight wire, I tightly cinch down a couple regular size tip ties on the end of the wire to give the tool something to grab, then also use a mini zip tie around the end of the tool to lock the wire in. Pull away!
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Post by ksoles on Jul 25, 2018 7:20:36 GMT -5
I just had a really bizarre thought. I think we can all agree that the Sailfish hull performs really well. What if... and it's a major 'what if'... Sailfish developed a 3-piece boat using the same hull? 3-piece construction would gain a lot of deck space, and potentially provide much easier access to all the systems below deck. Yeah, I know it's a whole different animal. It'd be easier to just go buy a Contender or SeaVee. That would be awesome, but I don't think they would spend the money to build a new cap deck and cap mold. but like you said it would just be easier to just go buy a 3-piece boat. I think Sailfish is happy being a top mid-tier boat builder. they know they have a good product and better than most on the market in there price range.
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Post by hookedup on Aug 12, 2018 16:02:15 GMT -5
The more I learn...the more I wish I knew. I had planned to use the Accessory switch to control the Autopilot. However, it appears to be already in use. The circuit breakers are both wired and the switch is too. I'll have to figure out what the ACC switch controls when I have some time. My wife (God bless her) suggested I look at the wiring diagram. I'll meter it out later, but I haven't figured out what it turns on yet (may be taped back somewhere?). Anyway, one more add on the 245DC engineering improvements. The buss bars should be longer to allow for more attachments (see picture). Ground buss is so bad I'm having to add longer screws. It was more than maxed out when I got the boat from the factory. I'll probably take Team Ruby's advice and add some small buss bars - but, I'm so close. I only have to add the windshield wiper wires and radar power. Attachment Deleted
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