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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 10:41:34 GMT -5
It appears that my VHF has been tied into that harness and possibly my navigation lights cigarette lighter so my question would be which power source I could splice into on the new harness to reconnect all of this or should I just run them separately and not cut into the new harness. if I were to splice into the harness how would I tell if that wire is live all the time or only live when the switch is on. good God what a bunch of spaghetti unbelievable.
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Post by outtadblue on Jul 28, 2018 11:49:13 GMT -5
That's about what I found in mine. What I did was cut the plugs off and splice the wires separately. This way I was able to clean up a lot of the mess and make sure everything was correct. You have that option if you want to take the time , or you can just plug it in. If I remember correctly, there was a hot wire in the plug for accessories.
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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 12:01:49 GMT -5
Yep I f***** up big-time I could have just plugged the new unit into the end of the old harness and had all that mess tucked in there. The new harness doesn't attach down below it's a different plug so I guess now I will either reconnect everything, all unnecessary work but it may cause me to clean things up in there
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 28, 2018 12:05:44 GMT -5
The switch assembly that you have, does it have the matching Molex connector?
The nav lights should be on the harness. To use your VHF prior to this did you have to turn on an Accessory switch to power it up? Your compass and your gauge lights would typically be tied into your nav lights. The other option you have when setting a boat up is wiring your compass and gauge lights wired to the ignition switch, which means they would be on whenever the ignition is on. Most boats I have seen prefer the compass and the gauge lighting to be tied into the Nav/Anc switch. Your cigarette lighter, was that also on an Accessory switch before?
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 28, 2018 12:14:23 GMT -5
There is a pink wire in the factory wiring and it is labelled as "Fuel" on the schematic, so it looks like it should be where it is.
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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 12:38:26 GMT -5
Thanks Ron I'm going to put everything back the way it was which is kind of unnecessary work but I could probably pull out about 10 feet of extra wire in there that I don't need so it's not in vain anyway
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 28, 2018 13:35:09 GMT -5
Glen, did the switch panel you bought come with the Molex connector on it? It sounds like you're doing way too much for the panel I'm more familiar with.
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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 13:48:52 GMT -5
Exactly what I did way too much I should have left the old harness in place and just plug the new one in but I didn't so I just hooked it up and things are working I just got to switch around a few of the Rockers to freshwater's putting on the bait while so I'll switch them around now rocker switches
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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 14:00:01 GMT -5
Freshwater and baitwell are mixed up anchor light not working navigation lights work spreader lights work bilge pump works horn sounds like it's almost got too short
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 28, 2018 14:13:09 GMT -5
Glen, so does the switch labelled freshwater have a brown wire with a white tracer on it and does the baitwell have a brown wire with a blue with a blue tracer on it? If so, just pull these two wires and reverse them on the switches and then you should be good. It's easier than trying to pull the entire switch.
The correct color code for the freshwater should be brown with blue trace and of then the baitwell should be brown with a white trace.
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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 14:53:29 GMT -5
I see on the new Molex connections when plugged into the old ones there are three areas where wires don't plug to each other.
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Post by Team Ruby on Jul 28, 2018 15:48:54 GMT -5
The Sailfish schematic does show three open positions on the Molex, so you should be OK as far as that goes.
The horn switch, it should only have two wires. The 12 volt feed should be the top wire and the other wire is the switched side and it goes directly to the horn.
Check to make sure too that none of the breakers have been tripped.
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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 16:23:50 GMT -5
Almost have everything still a small issue with the horn and my anchor light I got everything else working. Of course the new panel doesn't fit in the hole so I have to open that up tomorrow probably needs to be opened up 1/8 inch 3/16
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Post by finatic on Jul 28, 2018 16:24:43 GMT -5
Thank you for your help Ron
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Post by outtadblue on Jul 28, 2018 16:28:07 GMT -5
If I remember correctly, I had to reverse the diode in the anchor light switch. I too had trouble with that switch. Also had to enlarge opening by about 1/16.
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