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Post by boatlife on Jan 9, 2021 15:01:01 GMT -5
Newbie question:
i need to keep a brand new 2021 245dc on a mooring in a location that is somewhat exposed (Boston area). There’s a healthy tide current and it’s not uncommon for the wind to blow 25-35mph. Had one storm last year with 50mph sustained winds. Point is, the boat will be swinging and bobbing in 2ft chop.
whats the best way to secure the boat to the mooring?
should I use a bridle to the two pop-up cleats near the bow?
Or
should I fasten to the bow eye? with a shackle? or a bowline?
I own the mooring and need to replace the old pendants this year anyway. Trying to decide the best setup.
The bow eye seems like it would ride the best but I’ve heard horror stories of bow eyes loosening and eventually cracking the hull under lateral loads (swinging).
The bridle to the cleats seems more typical but those pop-up cleats on the 245dc don’t exactly instill confidence. Plus, the pendants rub on the fiberglass and, when the boat pitches in the chop, they pass shockingly close to the sharp edges of the anchor sitting on the bow roller. Definitely looks like contact with the anchor is possible in the right chop with the right swing.
Do any of you veterans have experience mooring to the bow eye? Ever had or heard of an issue? Whats your preferred attachment to the bow eye?
thanks for reading. Appreciate any advice or tips you all might have.
-Tom
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Post by EasyPeasy on Jan 11, 2021 8:14:27 GMT -5
I'm glad you started this discussion. I'm not a veteran at mooring, but I started researching and set my own mooring in Barnegat Bay New Jersey last summer. I did not get to *use* it due to time/travel disruptions but I have a few points to share and look forward to carrying on this discussion as the season approaches. Barnegat Bay is also quite windy, almost all the time. Something of a regional attraction for windsurfing... Take your construction seriously. In the last 3 years, there have been two boats that lost their moorings and wound up on our shore*. So it definitely can happen. You want swivels at every junction. I plan to connect to the bow eye and I strongly recommend it. Not only for strength, but to avoid chafing on the gelcoat. Even a nice smooth line will chafe and you'll see it in just one season. You want a main and a safety line for sure. Despite what I said about the cleat and chafing, you can put the safety line to the cleat, because it should not be under tension unless the main line fails.
I plan to use a clip to connect to the bow eye. I'll try to find the link or at least a pic of mine. The water where I moor is only 3 - 4 feet deep, so I'll be easily standing under the hull to connect. Not sure what to do it you have to connect from topsides....I guess you connect to the cleat and then get on the launch and connect to the bow eye from below as well....
Again - any veterans out there, we welcome feedback/criticism. The stakes are high....
Those are my thoughts so far
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Post by boatlife on Jan 12, 2021 18:14:07 GMT -5
@easypeasy thanks for digging in here. The stakes are high indeed. “Too big to fail” you might say (or my bank might say).
So you have been mooring to the bow eye with any issues? How long you been doing it and what size boat?
Definitely interested to see the snap hook you’re using. I’ve had a few locals at the yacht club recommend a “snap hook to the bow eye” but most of the hooks I see have a fairly low rating. And most of their boats are old small skiffs that, well, frankly could end up on the beach without financial ruin... Do you think a snap hook or shackle to the eye will scrape up the hull near the eye? Wonder if there’s a softer way to make a quick connect to the bow eye?
You also make a good point about reaching the bow eye: can’t reach it from the bow. If the bow eye ends up being the best primary attachment i was thinking I’ll need to make some sort of tool to pass a line through the eye or maybe a short extension line that stays rigged to the eye. Anyone have recommendations here?
Veterans what are you doing to protect your investment?
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Post by finatic on Jan 12, 2021 19:35:53 GMT -5
Well my 2cents if it were mine. The bow eye for sure. And a bridle on the two cleats as a safety back up. Left loose enough so it won't damage the gel coat. The bridle could be attached first to stabilize the boat then when you get into the dinghy to go ashore you attach the bow eye from the dinghy, which will remove the tension on the bridle.
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Post by boatlife on Jan 17, 2021 10:53:52 GMT -5
Thanks finatic. That would certainly cover the bases How would you attach the bow eye? Steel hardware? Or rope/sling? Ever hear of the bow eye cracking the hull? I’ve read a number of warnings and horror stories on other forums about how the bow eye is not designed for the stresses of mooring and particularly swinging on the mooring.
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Post by finatic on Jan 17, 2021 17:30:51 GMT -5
Thanks finatic . That would certainly cover the bases How would you attach the bow eye? Steel hardware? Or rope/sling? Ever hear of the bow eye cracking the hull? I’ve read a number of warnings and horror stories on other forums about how the bow eye is not designed for the stresses of mooring and particularly swinging on the mooring. I'm sorry but my experience tying up to moorings has only been for the day off my cleats. Because you own the mooring what has been your method of tying previous boats. Sounds like a risky way to leave your boat hopefully you will stay ahead of any incoming weather so you can move the boat.
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Post by EasyPeasy on Jan 17, 2021 17:34:29 GMT -5
finatic - I totally agree. But I'm new too, and I've only set my mooring. I haven't spent any considerable time on it. Even when I do, it will just be for a weekend or a week at a time. Here's the clip I plan to use: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G75MSRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They have one that's rated 1500 kg as well. Using ALL CHAIN for the main. And the key is - you want to use really heavy chain at the base of the mooring and then lighter chain. The heavy chain stays in large part on the bottom and serves as a bit of a shock absorber. Here is a sketch of the layout I use. Note the rope - I will say you want to be sure any ends are whipped or melted. I had a bird's nest when I temporarily tied a float to my helix anchor before I got the proper buoy. And swivels, always use swivels...
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Post by Twisted on Jan 23, 2021 16:12:28 GMT -5
I've moored my boats for over 35 years and always use my cleats. Use chafe protectors for the pennants. You should also replace your chain every 3 seasons. A lot of people think it is a "set it and forget it" with a mooring. I worked on the water for a former Coast Guard officer and he implemented the 3 year rule in my harbor when he was harbormaster. People were originally pissed due to the cost but after a few storms and no boats up on the rocks like in past years people got used to the rule pretty quickly. As for attaching to the bow eye, logistically how would you do that? From a tender? Our mooring field has over 1500 moorings in it and not one boat attaches to their mooring with the bow eye. Hope this is helpful.
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Post by finatic on Jan 24, 2021 8:37:21 GMT -5
I've moored my boats for over 35 years and always use my cleats. Use chafe protectors for the pennants. You should also replace your chain every 3 seasons. A lot of people think it is a "set it and forget it" with a mooring. I worked on the water for a former Coast Guard officer and he implemented the 3 year rule in my harbor when he was harbormaster. People were originally pissed due to the cost but after a few storms and no boats up on the rocks like in past years people got used to the rule pretty quickly. As for attaching to the bow eye, logistically how would you do that? From a tender? Our mooring field has over 1500 moorings in it and not one boat attaches to their mooring with the bow eye. Hope this is helpful. There's the answer from two experts with years of experience thanks for sharing. Boatlife that should ease your mind take their advice implemented on your mooring and enjoy your season.
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Post by boatlife on Jan 25, 2021 20:57:43 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the discussion on this. Appreciate all your input.
Think I’ll go with traditional pennants to the cleats and monitor closely. If the chaffing is too much for the glass, maybe add a third line to the bow Eye.
@easypeasy: I’ll send you some specs of my mooring setup. Had it designed/installed by a local mooring service company. Similar to your diagram but some small differences.
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Post by flyben24 on Mar 15, 2021 21:43:15 GMT -5
Helpful discussion here. I just got a 2010 218CC and was surprised how small the two forward cleats are. Any specific recommendations for a bridle ( I believe this is the correct term) to connect to the mooring? Line would preferably have to be thin enough to pass under the cleat to tie off.
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