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Post by finatic on Mar 23, 2021 16:06:13 GMT -5
So the end of last season I started having intermittent issues with both pumps salt water wash down and fresh sometimes they worked sometimes they didn't they sometimes tripped the breaker, just a real pita. So today I removed every connection in the stern ran new ground wires heat shrink connectors and still the same b*******. So I'm thinking somewhere in the harness there's an issue. If I can't resolve it, this is my plan B. Two new switches in the starboard rear corner near both hoses wired directly to the motor positive and negative posts in the stern. Close and simple. Then guys will stop asking is the pump on because it'll be next to the hose in their hand.
Has anyone else had this issue with their pumps ?
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Post by schlnrnd on Mar 23, 2021 16:16:29 GMT -5
Corrosion on the bus bars or corrosion on the pins in the dolch connectors. I had intermittent power with some of my electronics last fall and the new dolch connector fixed the issue.
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Post by finatic on Mar 23, 2021 16:44:49 GMT -5
I eliminated the doich connectors.
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Post by outtadblue on Mar 23, 2021 16:54:56 GMT -5
I did away with mine years ago also. It helped a lot of my problems.
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Post by finatic on Mar 23, 2021 17:51:12 GMT -5
I did away with mine years ago also. It helped a lot of my problems. That's why I'm leaning towards something in the harness. I've found runs of wire that had 2 or more connectors rather than making one home run.
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Post by gatorman on Mar 23, 2021 18:21:36 GMT -5
Corrosion on the bus bars or corrosion on the pins in the dolch connectors. I had intermittent power with some of my electronics last fall and the new dolch connector fixed the issue. 2nd on the bus bar
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Post by finatic on Mar 23, 2021 19:38:34 GMT -5
bus bar will be next to check tomorrow thanks for the tip.
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Post by Maysport on Mar 24, 2021 9:58:26 GMT -5
I actually like the Deutsch connectors, but nothing beats a straight waterproof wiring connection to avoid any moisture entry. I'm not clear if you already have the switches in the rear? I didn't have operational problems with mine, but the indicating LED lights on the switches has burned out and you couldn't tell if there was power to the pump or not, so I changed mine out last year when I changed the pumps. I got replacement rocker switches from Newark Electronics. They are ArcoElectric panel switches, Model C5503PLLAA, SPST, On-Off, 16A, 250 V, Newark Part No. 48W5570. They were only $4.34 each.
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Post by reelkul on Mar 24, 2021 16:05:34 GMT -5
Run fresh new wires from the console to the pump splice. If you have connectors, clean them with DeoxIT? It cleans (actually etches the surface) and lubricates electrical contacts. I love the Deutsch connectors. Makes the change quick and easy. I have all three pumps (fresh water, raw water, baitwell) set-up on those, and I have spares of each one in my garage with the connector already attached. When I attach the connector I pot the insides with clear dielectric grease. I put that s*** on ALL my electrical connections.
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Post by finatic on Mar 24, 2021 17:04:02 GMT -5
I agree time to run new wires.
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Post by schlnrnd on Mar 24, 2021 20:10:32 GMT -5
Corrosion on the bus bars or corrosion on the pins in the dolch connectors. I had intermittent power with some of my electronics last fall and the new dolch connector fixed the issue. 2nd on the bus bar new bus on the right.
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