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Post by Team Ruby on Sept 22, 2018 9:49:21 GMT -5
You have a hole in your boat!!! I would leave it. You will have sealant around the inside and outside of the transducer. You should be good to go. Agree, a slightly rougher surface will give your adhesive sealant a better surface to grip to.
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Post by tunawhisperer on Sept 22, 2018 18:17:27 GMT -5
Nice work How'd the Unhesive work? Not sure. I soaked it for awhile and still was a pain to get off. didn't help at all with getting the top nut off. I ended up using a dremel wheel to grind out the adhesive and foam washer under the nut then hit the wrench i bought to remove the nut with a hammer for 30 minutes straight to loosen. Then used a drill w/ 9/16" bit to drill through the transducer and it finally loosened up a little and used a hammer to get it out.
I read this on THT. Was planning to drill through the transducer and put a long 1/2 bolt through the transducer with a large washer on the inside. Then setup a bracket with 2x4's in an H setup underneath. Then use a socket wrench to tighten the nut/bolt to pull it out. Tough to explain but luckily it loosened from the pressure and vibration of the drill before got to that point.
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Post by shelbri on Sept 22, 2018 18:31:10 GMT -5
Tunawhisperer - This is very helpful as I may need to do the same. My fish finder always losses the bottom when I am running. I assumed it was getting an air pocket under the hull as I ran. As soon as I slowed to trolling or drifting speed, the finder returned and all was well. Last weekend, however, I was fishing and lost the bottom and got a No Data message on the MFD. Fiddled with all the wiring to no benefit. Checked the Fishfinder setup and all looks as it should with the proper transducer listed. Also, did a reset. Still No Data message. I have an Airmar SS164 20 degree transducer to my Raymarine E120W MFD.
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Post by finatic on Sept 22, 2018 19:16:15 GMT -5
Wondering how the unhesive worked would like to try it on the gunnel caps, I want to do mine again this time in black.
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Post by shelbri on Oct 20, 2018 21:08:52 GMT -5
Spoke with Raymarine yesterday. Apparently, the older B164 or SS164 has an impedance problem that is not compatible with the Sounder CP370. I'm like WTF - they gave me the CP370 as a replacement for the DSM300. They knew I had the SS164 transducer. So now they believe the transducer needs to be replaced with a new B164 (new ones I'm told don't have the same issue.) . They also suggested I send the CP370 up to NH to see if any circuit are fried.
Looks like I have a Spring project to remove the existing transducer and replace with same but updated unit. Thought about changing to a new CHRP transducer but I'm not sure it's worth the money. Thoughts? Also would rather just replace with the same size transducer so I don't have to either put a new hole in the hull or glass existing hole so I can re-drill to accommodate at a smaller size transducer.
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Post by ragtop409 on Oct 20, 2018 22:27:16 GMT -5
Did Airmar give a year or cut off date between the old B164 and the new one? Mine seams to act up sometimes also it is dated 02/14. I run a Furuno 585 that I even sent back for service that came back with nothing more then a software update and $135 bill. Rag’s
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Post by shelbri on Oct 21, 2018 6:34:10 GMT -5
Did Airmar give a year or cut off date between the old B164 and the new one? Mine seams to act up sometimes also it is dated 02/14. I run a Furuno 585 that I even sent back for service that came back with nothing more then a software update and $135 bill. Rag’s No. My boat is a 2008 and they just said its a known issue with the B164. In fact, they added a software update for the CP370 that is supposed to protect its circuits from the B164 impedance change. Seems like poor engineering but not much I can do but replace with newer equipment as original stuff is now 10+ years old.
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