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Post by unclebuck on Nov 29, 2018 14:44:17 GMT -5
Over the past year or so, my Raymarine C80's screen has been getting progressively worse. I think it may be suffering physical burn from sun exposure, even with the cover in place. It's as if a layer behind the glass, before the LCD, has delaminated and cooked. All functionality of the unit is still 100%. Has anyone had this issue? Can it be fixed? It's the original unit installed on my boat in 2005, so waaaay out of warranty. Surprisingly, this is one case in which the photos look better than it really is.  |
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Post by Team Ruby on Nov 29, 2018 18:12:45 GMT -5
I ran into the same thing a couple of years ago. The new owner had a helm station located in the main salon. The previous owner had neglected the boat for a number of years and during the summer months the salon was an oven. The unit was an E-120 Classic, same generation as your C80. Same thing, the layer behind the glass, which is the display was cracked, and distorted. You could still see an image, but it was terrible. I reached out to a couple of guys on The Hull Truth and got the same answer, it was beyond repair. We then looked for a donor unit to solve the problem. You might get lucky and find a service facility that's got one for parts that can replace yours, good luck with it.
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Post by Dirty D on Nov 29, 2018 21:32:16 GMT -5
Take a look on ebay you may be able to find a used one there. I just checked ebay and there are quite a few used C 80's for sale. Good luck,
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Post by fishnfool on Nov 29, 2018 22:01:24 GMT -5
Contact Max. He repairs most brands. They are a vendor on THT. If it can be fixed they can do it. maxmarineelectronics.com |
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Post by kbh on Nov 30, 2018 8:07:42 GMT -5
Contact Max. He repairs most brands. They are a vendor on THT. If it can be fixed they can do it. maxmarineelectronics.comThanks, I just e-mailed then to see if they could repair a Simrad unit with bubbling or delamination around the edge of my screen. |
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Post by unclebuck on Nov 30, 2018 10:13:22 GMT -5
Thanks for the lead, FishnFool. I sent an email to Max. Hopefully they can do something. I just can't afford to replace the whole unit right now. Used are going for $450+.
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Post by fishnfool on Nov 30, 2018 10:42:57 GMT -5
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Post by Gitsum on Nov 30, 2018 10:52:27 GMT -5
Mine had the same problem when I bought the boat. Previous owner stated that it was the second time it happened. (south Fl. boat with dark cover) The first time he sent it in to manufacturer and they replaced the film at no cost. I did not bother having it repaired a second time and replaced all the electronics. Still wondering if anyone would be interested in buying it from me.
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Post by unclebuck on Nov 30, 2018 15:27:35 GMT -5
Gitsum... I guess that would depend on whether it's a repairable issue outside of Raymarine's service centers, since the mfg. no longer supports those old models.
Small world. Max Marine Electronics is actually only a few blocks from the t-shirt printer I use. I'll pull the C80 off my boat this weekend and drop it off at MME early next week. Gitsum, I'll let you know the result, so you can decide what to do with yours.
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Post by abouttime2fish on Dec 1, 2018 16:09:28 GMT -5
I got next to nothing for mine at a marine consignment shop near me when I upgraded to Simrad 2-3 years ago. Keep hunting, there’s a cheap unit out there sitting on someone’s workbench collecting dust waiting for you.
If you don’t have any marine consignment shops around, call some electronics installers. Sometimes they’ve done upgrades and customer doesn’t want the old stuff.
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Post by unclebuck on Dec 12, 2018 9:41:36 GMT -5
Success! Although, a little expensive. Brought my chartplotter to Max Marine Electronics in Pompano Beach, FL last Thursday. No cables or bezel, just the bare unit. Before I even set it down on the table, the tech said, "that's a C80, right?" I knew I was in the right place. He didn't even hesitate when I said the screen needs replacement. Picked it up a few days later, plugged it back into my console, and the display looks good as new! The downside was the $400 repair bill. I'm sure I could have found a used C80 somewhere cheaper, but I was able to avoid all the configuration and data transfer hassle by keeping mine. Now it's time to make a canvas cover to protect the helm electronics, so this shit doesn't happen again! Ignore the moire pattern caused by the camera. The replacement screen is sharp and clear now.  |
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Post by outtadblue on Dec 12, 2018 11:11:49 GMT -5
Now you can get back to killing those deep water fish. Glad you got it fixed.
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Post by unclebuck on Mar 22, 2019 21:05:03 GMT -5
The saga continues.
Just an FYI to any of you that own an old Raymarine C80 Classic chartplotter.
A few weeks ago, my C80 screen started going dark at random intervals. It was still functioning properly, but I couldn't see the screen. I discovered that if I pressed the power button to activate the dimmer options, turned the dial all the way down then all the way back up, the screen would be visible again. But then a few minutes later... dark again. Then it started happening a couple times per minute, and also when I would press any buttons. Completely frustrating as I was in very shallow, murky water.
Took the C80 back to Max Electronics. They did a factory reset and bench-tested it. All seemed good. Installed it a week later. Same dark screen problem started again after about 20 minutes.
Took it back to Max again. This time Max himself hooked it up to a variable power supply and was able to duplicate the problem by slowly lowering the voltage below about 10.6v. The screen went dark, but the unit remained on. That gave me a possible cause, and something to inspect on my boat.
I reinstalled the C80, and tested the voltages on my boat at the distribution block and at the C80's power cord plug end. Solid 13.9v with the motor running. Powered the C80 on, and it worked fine... for 20 minutes. Ugh. Same crap.
I took the C80 and its power cord home to do my own bench testing. I was able to duplicate the problem after it was powered on for 20 minutes. With my options limited, I started digging through the system settings, to no avail. For a goof, I tried setting the screen brightness to about half. It was finally stable! I could not make the screen go dark! So I kept increasing the brightness and testing it until I hit 100%, at which point it went dark almost immediately.
The cause of this glitch is still unknown, and it's unlikely to ever get fixed with a software update. (15 y/o unit) But, my workaround seems to be successful. The dimmer has about 63 increments. As long as it's one click from full brightness, the screen remains lit.
Hope this helps anyone that encounters this bizarre issue.
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