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Post by kbh on Sept 23, 2018 12:57:33 GMT -5
It's probably push in with an O-ring to water proof it.
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Post by kbh on Sept 23, 2018 13:20:14 GMT -5
I just looked at the F115 schematic and the bl/yel wires goes to the ECM and the black wire goes to ground. So apparently that fitting has to be on to start it. And when it overheats it opens the circuit and either shuts or slows the engine down to 1000 rpm's depending on which model engine and also sounds an alarm.
How this relates to your problem I don't know.
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Post by sfgreg on Sept 23, 2018 22:08:30 GMT -5
How this relates to your problem I don't know. Thanks - I wonder if I just change the sensor in the pic with the close up, if that would help....
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Post by Team Ruby on Sept 24, 2018 14:14:19 GMT -5
At this point I would suggest holding off on replacing the sensor in the picture. It's identified correctly as far as I can tell as a thermo sensor as noted by the wire color code. The wire I was suggesting is referred to in most of the posts I've read on other sites as an overheat sensor and this is based on the again the wiring color code. I have been incorrectly referring to the overheat sensor as a thermo sensor and apparently they serve different functions, at the very least the color code of the wire is different. kbh knows more about engines than I do, so I would certainly defer to him.
This question may shed some light on the ignition switch for me. When you turn the ignition switch to the ON position do the gauges show nighttime illumination. You may need to do this in the early evening to tell the difference. Now turn on the NAV lights, do the gauges look any different? The reason I ask is because the Yamaha ignition switch has a yellow and blue wire on it, they may or may not be connected together. The yellow wire supplies the plus side of battery voltage when the ignition switch is turned on. The blue wire is the Yamaha gauge illumination wire. What I'm trying to figure out is if this yellow wire is the same wire that you're seeing connected to the buzzer. Some people prefer that the gauge lights come on only when they're running with their NAV lights on, but from previous posts of yours I did not see a blue wire connected to your NAV/ANC light switch, so my thought right now is that the gauge lights come on with the ignition. If the buzzer gets its 12 volts from the same source on the ignition switch it would be buzzing all of the time while the switch is ON.
My approach if this boat was available to me would involve using a VOM to track down the source for the signal to the buzzer. If you know someone who has skills with a VOM I would suggest enlisting their help and possibly doing the following: 1. check for the presence of voltage at the buzzer with the ignition switch in the OFF position. I would hope the meter reads zero volts. 2. turn the ignition switch ON and read voltage. I would assume that it would again read zero volts, otherwise you would hear the buzzer. If you don't see any voltage with the ignition switch in the ON position then this is probably not the 12 volt switched source coming from the Yamaha ignition switch. 3. now turn the ignition OFF and see what the meter shows. From what you've said I would expect to see voltage for about the 4 seconds you have been observing and then the voltage would drop to zero. If this is the case then you really need to follow the yellow wire to its source.
In the three steps above I'm assuming that the yellow wire is the positive lead, if not we need a plan B, which usually means fanatic has to step in.
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Post by kbh on Sept 24, 2018 15:55:30 GMT -5
Thanks for the vote of confidence Team Ruby but I really only know a fairly good amount about my own HPDI engine and how it works. Other than that you are giving me way too much credit. And I've never owned a newer four stroke Yamaha so I'm working on somewhat educated guessing.
And exactly how his thermo sensor works is still a question mark to me. I'm just guessing after seeing how the schematic looks. On my engine the thermo sensor test would show continuity up to approx 190 degrees where it breaks continuity and then regains continuity when the temp drops down to around 160 degrees. I do agree with you in that I don't think it's related to his problem.
Are we assuming that the piezo buzzer is part of the original Yamaha wiring cable? Or, is that an add on from the previous owner? I've been pretty much all over the wiring in both this boat and my last boat and don't remember seeing any buzzer that looked like that. I believe they are normally part of the ignition switch for CC's and inside the binnacle for side console boats.
Anyhow, if it were me, I don't think I'd let it keep my from using the boat. Doesn't sound like it's hurting anything. I'd probably just use it as sfgreg mentioned earlier as a reminder to shut off the main power switch.
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Post by Team Ruby on Sept 24, 2018 16:50:55 GMT -5
kbh, you used the word schematic and the acronym ECM all in the same sentence. I rest my case!
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Post by sfgreg on Sept 25, 2018 10:26:13 GMT -5
you guys are the best!!
I'm over my head now, officially. I took it out yesterday for a few hours, and despite the alarm on shutoff (as expected) and one weird beep that came out of no where and never returned, (while underway), it was an awesome day, and everything ran perfectly.
I think I'll book an hour with a mechanic and see of he can either disable it (after seeing if it's a concern) or make it a useful alarm. While it's there, he can do a once-over, tell me the hours, and do a proper comp test. That'll give me peace of mind at least.
many thanks for all of the input.
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Post by Team Ruby on Sept 25, 2018 15:44:41 GMT -5
That's a smart move. If he can figure it out it will be one more think off of the punch list and a little more peace of mind. I'll be curious to see what he finds. Good luck!
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Post by outtadblue on Sept 25, 2018 15:47:25 GMT -5
Good luck! I still think something is not wired right.
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Post by sfgreg on Sept 26, 2018 9:05:07 GMT -5
Hi All
For anybody that has been watching this thread, I wanted to put a cap on it and close the book. I took it into the certified mechanic locally, told him about the buzzer, and also asked them to do a data scan/lookover, and within a couple of hours they called to say it was ready to go.
The buzzer was indeed wired incorrectly, making it false, and is now wired to actually warn me of any issues (overheating etc). Whew - that's a puzzle I'm glad is over. I want to thank especially TeamRuby for his countless ideas and troubleshooting, as well as all others (kbh/outadblue etc) that offered information, support and ideas.
In other good news, the compression test showed 200/220/230/230 - they felt that to be close enough to each other, although I had heard they should be within 10 of each other? They are not concerned. Is there something I can do that can bring them closer together?
Also - turns out this new to me motor has only 213 hours on it. I know that's not always positive - it must've sat a bit since 2002. Does that mean there's anything I should do? (oil's been changed, spark plugs are new etc, gas tank emptied and re-filled with clean gas, new gas filters etc)
Overall they said it doesn't need anything.
Thanks again
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Post by outtadblue on Sept 26, 2018 9:17:55 GMT -5
That's good news! You should be fine with the compression also. The only thing the motor needs is running. I would run non ethenol, high octane gas through it and add ring free to fuel also.
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Post by sfgreg on Sept 26, 2018 9:26:47 GMT -5
That's good news! You should be fine with the compression also. The only thing the motor needs is running. I would run non ethenol, high octane gas through it and add ring free to fuel also. Thanks. Right now I'm SO GLAD i took the time and siphoned out the tank (about 50 gallons), and refilled it with non ethanol, and added stabil treatment (will that do the trick or whould I still add Ring Free?) - i was told by so many people to just run it out, but that gas might have been years old - no one knew. It looked like green Gatorade.
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Post by kbh on Sept 26, 2018 9:29:48 GMT -5
Some good running and using a decarbonizer such as Ring Free could end up raising your compression numbers. Also, they should be taken when the motor is fully warmed up and throttle open for best accuracy. Most of the time mechanics just do it cold.
Just curious, is the 200 psi on the bottom cylinder? On a lot of engines it seems to be for some reason. Anyhow, glad to hear it and no worries, you're good to go.
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Post by Team Ruby on Sept 26, 2018 9:37:36 GMT -5
I agree with outtadblue, get out, run it, and enjoy it!
I'm glad to hear the buzzer has been resolved. I think those of us that were following this post thought the previous owner was feeding you a line about the buzzer being normal, it just didn't make any sense. Now you can get out on it with a greater sense of confidence in the boat.
Wow! only 213 hours on the engine, for a lot of us our bilge pumps have more hours on them.
Now we need a fishing report from you (with pictures).
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Post by outtadblue on Sept 26, 2018 11:32:48 GMT -5
The bottom cylinder will usually be a little lower. After running a tank of gas through it, I bet your compression will be a little higher.
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